The Tudors Cotswold Inn 88-90 Papanui Road Phone 553-535 Licensed

Press, 29 January 1986, Page 38

The Tudors Cotswold Inn 88-90 Papanui Road Phone 553-535 Licensed

(By

HANS PETROVIC)

We were warned right at the start that the preparation of our food would take longer than at an “average” restaurant because every dish was individually prepared with fresh ingredients.

I like to think that is how food is prepared at every restaurant, but this courteous warning somehow set the mood for a leisurely evening to be enjoyed in comfortable surroundings, with the assurance that special care was being taken with the dishes.

The Tudors considers itself an above-average restaurant, and rightly so — one look at the prices on the menu indicates that you are somewhere special. After quick service by the drink waiter, our party of four relaxed in

praise the pleasant Tudorstyle surroundings.

Besides one feature wall of schist, the others were of wood panelling hung with portraits of the Tudor kings and queens. Wooden beams crossed the ceiling, and the entrance doors featured stained glass. A pianist provided unobtrusive background music. The quality of the tableware also indicated the high standards of the restaurant. On top of the white tablecloth were fine white plates, good silver, including napkin rings, and one red carnation in the centre.

A choice of two soups ($3.60) was offered: cold tomato or a beef and port consomme with rice. Barry and I ordered the consomme. The choice of breads included German Lavosch, a tasty, crisp form with poppy seeds and garlic flavour. We agreed that the consomme was enjoyably strong on the port, with generous herbs, but required plenty of salt for our tastes. This is not intended as a criticism, for one of my dreads is an over-salted consomme — better with no salt, and adjust to taste. Of the entrees, Pat and Dawn chose the mushroom caps ($8), filled with oysters, tomato and garlic, and glazed with Hollandaise sauce. Both women found this delicious, although they complained about the scarcity of mushrooms and oysters. The entrees were served with two slices of lemon and a sprig of fennel.

Barry ordered the Nelson scallops ($9.25) in a white burgundy sauce, served on a bed of sauteed leeks and mushrooms, in a light pastry shell. He obviously enjoyed the half-dozen molluscs.

My entree was king prawns ($9.80) filled with crabmeat and garlic butter, rolled in white breadcrumbs, deep fried and served with pink pep-

percorns in a butter and white wine sauce. I found the three prawns somewhat dry, but I blame myself for not reading the menu property, as I usually steer clear of deepfried dishes. This made me wonder whether I should have ordered instead Henry’s Salad ($l2 for two) which was being prepared with great flair at a nearby table. This was a combination of crisp salads and sauteed sweetbreads, tossed with a sour cream dressing. Refreshing fruit sorbet, topped with a frozen grape, was served gratis before the main course. Dawn had ordered the Nelson scallops ($18.50), set in a dish, on a bed of rice, covered with a tomato souffle and ovenbaked until light and fluffy. She was delighted by the dozen firm, fat scallops — among the best she had ever had.

Pat chose the escalope of pork fillet ($17.50) pressed with chopped shallots, pan-fried, topped with crabmeat and asparagus, and glazed with a bearnaise sauce. This was declared finely cooked. Barry greatly enjoyed his fillet steak ($18.25), studded with black

peppercorns and coated with a cream brandy sauce. About 3cm thick, this was a hearty meal, enhanced by what we took to be additional fresh peppercorns in the sauce. (At his insistence, I tried a small portion, and also found it to be first-rate steak.) I chose breast of pheasant ($18), pocketed with minced game-meat, sauteed and garnished with a cream and brandy sauce, flavoured with English mustard and green peppercorns. Again, it was these fresh peppercorns, adding a crunchy hotness, that made the dish outstanding. The accompanying vegetables — potato croquettes, carrots, stuffed tomato and broccoli — were considered very good. For dessert, I followed with the luxury of a crepe souffle ($6), filled with apricots and flambed at our table with an apricot and brandy sauce. This was great fun, and without a doubt the lightest, most exquisite souffle I have had in Christchurch. Dawn chose the chocolate truffle cake ($5.40), served with creme anglaise and layered with fresh cream. She still has

fond memories a fortnight later.

Pat’s home-made fruit ice-cream ($5), was served in an almond tulle basket with an accompanying fruit puree, and was also well received.

To end the evening, we had black coffee ($2.60), a specifically ordered Earl Grey tea, and an Irish whiskey ($5), served with home-made chocolates containing cherries, sultanas and other delights.

The inevitable shock at the end of such a sumptuous evening comes with the bill: $152 for four (food, $130.90; drinks, $21.10).

We deemed this figure not too exorbitant (if you can afford to go to such an up-market restaurant, in the first place), for one is paying not only for the food and drinks, but also for fine surroundings, tableware and service, none of which could be faulted.

Our thanks to Blue, the waiter, who was always polite without being obsequious; at hand when needed without breathing over our shoulder; and capable of finding Earl Grey tea without raising more than an eyebrow.