Key elements for winter fashion

Press, 29 January 1986, Page 13

Key elements for winter fashion

Suit yourself in ’B6

‘ In vogue

Paula Ryan

Once the summer sales are over, winter fashion will begin to show off its airs and graces. It is going to be a very interesting winter indeed, with many optional categories for women of all ages. There is only one category that, at first glance, seems totally for the young. Otherwise in all it facets, fashion is going to be adaptable for all age groups. There has never been a season giving such opportunity for the additions that add up to a projection of personal style. Accessories, are wonderfully imaginative,covering a broad spectrum to set the seal on personal style. It is to be hoped that this exciting winter will be seen on the streets, as it was in London late last year ... proudly and bravely so that you were very aware of what’s happening in fashion. Today, the first glimpses of what the winter is going to look like. Later, as the season consolidates, I’ll look at each category in some depth. CITY COUTURE

Elegant, sleek, architectural. Minimal and structured. Lengths are often mid-calf or short (just above the knee). Suits stand out in the city couture — boxy, short, cropped jackets with straight, short shirts or narrow pants .. tuniclength jackets over straight skirts and pants.

Colours are primarily dark — black, charcoal, golden browns, and deep earth tones, with purple predominating. Clear brights are used as counterpoint, particularly in outer-wear jackets and coats. Rich, refined fabrics are played up, including cashmere, garberdine, wool, fine flannel, suede, and the polish of silk.

Classic blazers have broader shoulders, seveneighth jackets, tubular knit dresses, soft blouson shirting. The city couture is best with a hat — fedoras, pill boxes, toques, turbans, Cossack hats — and is the ideal base for multiples ol chains, and mixes of pearls and gold chains.

THE COUNTRY CATEGORY

Classic, sporty, and textured. Equally at home in the city or the country, with mixes of traditional men’s wear patterns and tweeds with paisleys, antique florals, cravat and geometric patterns. Fabrics with pronounced textures predominate, as well as slubby knits, rustic wovens, tweeds, corduroys, wools, mohair and suede. Heavy texture is usually balanced with softer fabrics.

Colours are in the jewel tones of brick, ochre, and midnight blue, which are often combined with darker tones of mahogany, navy, and loden green. Black and white men’s wear patterns are important. Layering is intrinsic to this group, as are textured legs, good leather belts and bags, lace-up men’s shoes, gloves and shawls or "throws.” THE DANDY There is a great romantic revival in fashion, with retrospective looks from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries with Renaissance revival in the colours. It is opulent, romantic, luxurious, and courtly. Prints and patterns appear design-related, and colours are in the Persian carpet spectrum of rich jewel tones — everything with a warm cast. Fabrics are rich, ornate and warm-faced ... rich brocades, tapestry prints, jacquards, paisleys. Velvet stars, and equestrienne airs are an interesting aspect of the group.

Key pieces will be satin blouses, jabots, frills, vests, long full skirts, high-waisted pants, cinched waist jackets, Edwardian coats, tapestry belts and shoes, gauntlet gloves, laced boots, paisley cravats, wide, full trousers, dressing gown shapes stolen form the Thirties.

This is the category that will be lavished with jewellery. Big brooches holding extravagent spills of lace, insignia jewellery, big, gold-set “gems,” chunky bracelets, pins and masses of opulent “faux” Jewellery. FRENCH SCHOOLGIRL The British classics come in new colours and unexpected mixes. Influenced by classic prep, school uniform dressing, the look is interpreted in rich darks accented with bright brights and lots of winter white. Fabrics are flat, with masculine looks, donegals, plaids, fancy jacquards, and lace accents. Long pleated skirts, kilts, culottes, shirtdresses, manstyle pants, draped shirts, blazers, Princess coats.

Classic knitwear features, and the ornamentations should be emblems, insignia heraldic medals and Maltese crosses. Small brimmed hats, berets are in context, and chains and pearls combine in keeping. Textured hose is best, and shoes are mid-heel pumps, lace-up booties and shoes, fringed loafers, and men’s slippers. VIDEO GROUP For the young fashion follower, this style is bold and versatile, with so many options. Very Retro Sixties, showing pop art colours. It’s fun and provocative, with kitsch permitted. Colours are brilliant: Yellow, bright green, red, purple and cobalt blue. Colours and patterns contrast and dominate, and the silhouettes continue the contrasting game. Sweatshirt dresses, ankle-length skirts, miniskirts, voluminous sweaters, printed trousers, city jogging, coolie trousers, bowling shirts. It’s all great fun. Next week: Men in fashion this winter.