Peddling the paths of paradise

Press, 28 June 1983, Page 26

Peddling the paths of paradise

By

PAUL CALLISTER,

of Wellington

For budget-conscious travellers wanting a taste of Pacific Island life, cycle touring in Fiji offers a unique way of getting to know the country and its people. Unlike many other of the Pacific isles, such as Rarotonga around which one can cycle in less than a day, the main islands of Fiji are large enough to offer trips from a week to a month or more. On Viti Levu, more than half of the 490 km round-the-island road is sealed. While the gravel roads mean slow travel, cycling can still be very pleasant. And there is no reason to rush; everything moves at a slower pace in the islands! Even taxis and buses slow at the novel sight of a cycling tourist. Late winter is the best time for a cycling visit to Fiji as it is the dry season, and while temperatures are very warm they are not too hot except sometimes around midday. Sleeping bags are unnecessary; just a light sheet is needed. Cooking gear can be left at home: fresh fruit and cheap restaurants selling roti and curry for SFI (SNZI.SO) reduce any urge to cook meals. A tent can be useful, but make sure it is mosquito-proof. Fiji’s mosquitoes do not carry malaria, but they can be annoying. Bicycles carried on aircraft have to be packed in special boxes, but pay attention to keeping other baggage weight down in order to stay within limits. The alternative is to buy bicycles in Fiji, but although prices are reasonable, the range is limited. This is also the situation with spare parts. In rural areas accommodation is limited to camping or staying with the locals. It is, in fact, difficult to camp; the hospitality of both the Fijians and Indians is so overwhelming’ that attempts to put up tents are interrupted with invitations to stay with the people. Even cycling in the day is sometimes difficult, with the Fijians constantly shouting out the greeting “Bula” and wanting you to stop and talk, while the rural Indians, of a more retiring nature, wait until you are resting before approaching for a chat. It is fascinating to stay with the locals, but to avoid the bad reputation being created by some travellers, it is worth being sensitive to local customs.

Most of the important customs can be picked up quickly by reading books before the trip, or by asking questions. It is also appreciated if visitors take with them supplies of food sold in local stores so as not to be a drain on the hosts’ meagre incomes. The children can usually speak reasonable English, but smiles, laughter, and gifts all go a long way to breaking any language barrier. For those with little time the trip between Suva and Nandi provides a contrast of scenery, climate, and ways of life. Most of this journey is on the tar-sealed Queen’s Road, with only a day’s ride over a very rough gravel section under reconstruction. A complete circuit of the island requires about three weeks. Further afield one can catch the ferry to the other large island, Vanua Levu, where roads are rougher and steeper, except for a lovely section from Savusavu to the port at Buca Bay along a flat road through copra plantations by the sea. A ferry crosses each day to Taveuni, the garden island of Fiji, where exploration is on a more limited scale. From here people and bicycles can be transported back to Suva on a copra boat, but timetables are non-existent so have a week to spare before your return flight to New Zealand. Short trips round Suva are also worthwhile, such as that through the Colo-i-Suva Forest Park, only 11km out of town.