Abseiling menace to young climbers

Press, 12 May 1979, Page 25

Abseiling menace to young climbers

Mountain safety experts are concerned about the growing number of inexperienced climbers using the technique of abseiling. “Abseiling” is a method of descending sheer cliff or mountain faces by rope but if not taught properly it can prove fatal, the experts say.

A young Australian was killed this season while abseiling on a cliff face at the Mount Cook National Park, according to the park’s chief ranger (Mr B. W. Thomas). He had used an iron peg which had been driven into the cliffface by another climber. He had been a climber of “moderate experience.” Abseiling has killed many experienced, and famous, mountaineers, says the latest newsletter of the Auckland Mountain

Safety Committee. “If it is dangerous for an experienced person, what of the novice?” A member of the Canterbury Mountain Safety Committee, Mr N. Harris, says that if taught properly abseiling is an acceptable climbing technique. However, in many cases inexperienced persons are teaching abseiling to children.

Until two years ago, the Mountain Safety Council “frowned upon” any youth groups being taught abseiling, Mr Harris says. As no-one was taking any notice of the council’s warnings, it was decided to run courses and teach the technique properly.

Even so, the number of inexperienced persons teaching abseiling continues to grow and the

technique has mushroomed into a sport in its own right, Mr Harris says. A past president of the Canterbury Mountaineering Club, Mr I. Gardiner, says that the technique should not be taught “in isolation from good, sound mountaineering techniques.” It is better to learn basic rock climbing and the abseiling will “come along naturally.” The Auckland newsletter says that abseiling puts total reliance on equipment.

“Fast abseiling and jumping about impose heavy loads on gear. Friction can cause metal fatigue in karabiners (snap links) and — in at least one case — melting of the abseil line. This proved fatal.” Many mountaineers are reluctant to see it taught as a sport, nor should non-climbers teach it, the newsletter says. The Outward Bound School teaches abseiling as a means of building self-confidence and selfcontrol. However, the instructors are experienced and the gear is replaced regularly, the newsletter says.

Persons attending the Outward Bound School are more highly motivated than those on a week-end youth course, says another member of the Canterbury Mountain Safety Committee, Mrs J. Lute. They are far more likely to carry on with mountaineering. Mrs Lute says that abseiling should be kept out of any “week-end youth courses” and should only be taught to persons who are considering taking up climbing or mountaineering seriously. Abseiling should only be used in rock climbing as a last resort. A climber should never ascend a rock face which he cannot climb back down. Mrs Lute says. The technique also means that certain pieces of equipment are left behind in the rock face.

“There are organisations which are very keen to get children abseiling, scouts are among them. Their motivation may be the same as Outward Bound, which is fair enough, but a lot of experienced mountaineers have been killed,” says a member of the Auckland Mountain Safety Committee, Mr J. A. Maine, who is a professional climbing instructor.