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GARDENERS’ QUERIES

I would appreciate your assistance In cppnexlon with the naming or the varietal name of the Magnolia soulangeana shown on the enclosed magazine picture as It appeals to me as worth having—although your own recommendations

would be most helpful.—M. N. (Christchurch) The photograph Is not sharp enough to identify the variety which may perhaps be obtained by writing to The Australian Women’s Weekly, 168 Castlereagh street, Sydney. N.S.W. The choice of magnolias is somewhat dependent on the size of garden and situation, but otherwise most of them have possibly as much appeal as the nest one. The soulangeanas M. sleboldii. M. grandiflora, M. delavayi are perhaps some outstanding suggestions.

Last year I bought a plum tree, supposedly Early Rivers. Since then I have read literature which leads me to believe that this tree should have a pollinator. I have an ornamental rad leafed plum and wander whether this ceuld he a suitable pollinator for the fruiting variety?—L. K. (Christchurch) Early Rivers, a European Slum, is considered self fertile ut fruit-set could be enhanced by perhaps grafting on either Coe’s Golden Drop or President, if you wish, as both these varieties are suitable pollinators. The ornamental plum would not serve the purpose. I have ramavod a fence between my Rawars and a new vegetable plot. This fence runs along a stock

race and was heavy with pariwinkla. I am wondering whether there is any material I could kill it with which would not effect the water? Also, I have some Very dry four to five-year-old fowl manure and would like to know when Is the best time to spread it on the vegetable garden.—J. B. (Ranglora)

Although several applications may be necessary, Weedozol T. L. at the rate of one third of a pint a gallon of water, plus a teaspoon of wetting agent, should give satisfactory control. Best time to treat the periwinkle is when it is approaching the flowering stage. Incorporate the fowl manure when digging over the ground. I can see no harm in applying it now.

I would be very thankful If you ceuld tell me what spray to use for the blight on the enclosed cuttings of Jonathan and Reinette du Canada apples, which were S rafted on originally turmers tome 40 years ago. They have been sprayed each winter with red oil and in summer with arsenate of load. I have limo sulphur. cuprM, captan ■nd malathion, and wonder whether any of these are of any use?—C. D. (Samerfleld)

Your trees ere exceptionally heavily infested with oyster scales which are sucking Insects and not a blight disease. As you have been using the correct control, namely red or winter oil, and apparently failed to achieve control it could bo that you are not using a strong enough preparation, or applying adequate quantities. For every 9

gallon of water add one quarter pint oil. Arsenate of lead is ineffective against scales but is suitable for dealing with caterpillars. Captan, cuprox and lime sulphur are fungicides used to combat diseases. Lime sulphur is usable against mites and scales as well, and malathion is primarily an aphicide.

I am endeavouring to grow a few cuttings and so on in my garden and glasshouse as a hobby. Could you therefore tell me whether it Is possible to grow standard rows from standard rose cuttings or does one havo to employ a spacial technique?—"Curious Gardener” (Christchurch).

A standard rose Is only a bush rose growing on a long stem and in consequence any cuttings taken from a standard will only produce a bush type rose. The usual procedure in standard rose propagation is to grow stocks from three feet long cuttings taken in winter time. AU the lower buds are removed to prevent suckering after the cutting has rooted. In January or February of the following year the stock la budded with a selected variety at not less than two and a half feet from the ground and after the bud has "taken” the growth above it belonging to the budded stock is cut off. Bush roses are budded at or near ground level on nine inch stocks. Whatever type of rose is being raised, care must be taken to suppress all stock growth after the buds have taken otherwise they will suppress the desired variety's progress and undo all the work that has gone before.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19660624.2.66.2

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31094, 24 June 1966, Page 6

Word count
Tapeke kupu
728

GARDENERS’ QUERIES Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31094, 24 June 1966, Page 6

GARDENERS’ QUERIES Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31094, 24 June 1966, Page 6

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