The Art Of Pruning

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31082, 10 June 1966, Page 7

The Art Of Pruning

Now that winter has arrived and the last leaves are falling from deciduous trees and shrubs a major preoccupation in the garden will be that of pruning.

Apart from the important significance of knowing how to go about the job, it is in the future interest of the subject to be pruned to have the right equipment for the task and to know how to use it correctly. Just as it is to be hoped that you are not one of those who accepts the nearest wrench when the hammer cannot be found, it must be presumed that the slash hook is not taken instead of the secateurs or pruning saw.

There are a variety of tools and sundry items designed specifically for pruning. However, it is not necessary to have them all unless faced with a large number of subjects which require constant attention.

Saws are necessary to deal with branches in excess of Jin. The most useful is the round-bladed pruning saw which is available with varied numbers of teeth and rigid or collapsible handles. The blade shape enables the saw to be manipulated in really awkward positions, thus minimising damage to bark or neighbouring branches. Types of Saws The tubular-framed bow saw is recommended for dealing with heavier limbs, although manoeuvrability is more restricted. These saws are available in different sizes and various types of blades, such as raker toothing for quick, clean cutting and jack toothing especially suited for cutting the more difficult w’oods. Thus they are adaptable for cutting up firewood and suchlike chores. After use a saw should always be cleaned and wiped over with an oily rag to avoid rust deposits, which will quickly pit the blade and thereafter impair cutting efficiency because it is virtually impossible to remove rust pits once there. Check the sharpness of the teeth periodically and maintain a slight set to avoid jamming while sawing. Excessive set can cause tearing of bark and leave a rough surface finish to the cut. It is useful to be able to hang a saw up in the surrounding branches in between use when pruning and, therefore, a hole drilled through the handle so that string can be looped through it will make this possible. Occasion sometimes demands the removal of a high

limb. For this the long-armed pruner comes in handy. It is usually offered minus handle, which can be selected to suit, and frequently the operating mechanism has also to be innovated. Wire or rope attached to a grip fixed near the base of the handle is the most frequent operative device. When the grip is pulled down the jaws of the pruner are pulled together and so cut the desired wood. The standard of efficiency of this type of pruning tool is not very high and blades must be kept very sharp. A good solid handle is required. The operator, too, must have a strong arm! Use of Secateurs

Before considering secateurs mention must be made of lopping shears or longhandled pruners. These are ideal for removing snags or butts commonly encountered when pruning roses or blackcurrants, for instance. Extra expenditure on a top quality pair is well warranted as a flimsy tool can cause irreparable damage. Again sharp blades and a strong manipulator are required. Secateurs are as infinite in design as they are varied in price. Although professing far greater preference for the type with a fixed anvil and single, movable, centrallymounted blade, I would not altogether condemn the others, especially some of the older parrot beak type. This is much revered by the rosegrowing fraternity because it is generally felt that less damage is caused to the remaining wood on the rose. When buying secateurs do not be misled by looks or price. Some of the most elaborate and expensive ones are not worth the paper wrapped around them, while one or two of the comparatively cheaper ones are excellent tools to use. One of the most ruinous things associated with a pair of secateurs is frequently not the tool but the inefficiency of the operator. All too often I have seen the blades brought together with a twisting motion finished with a wrench. This not only crushes and tears the bark and cambium around the cut, thus allowing penetration of disease spores, but also destroys the symmetrical cutting action of the tool. Correct application requires a steady hand and a

definite cut straight through the wood without applying any lateral movement to the secateurs. The fitting of rubber grips over the handles will improve cutting power: these can be made from rubber hose and are easy to slip on if immersed in very hot water for some seconds. The blade must have a keen edge which should be constantly touched " up; do not use to cut growths in excess of Jin. Keep the moving parts oiled.

A knife is virtually indispensable when it comes to paring back the edges of large saw cuts, bark ringing or perhaps nicking and notching. Some very skilled operators even use it in lieu of secateurs but, although they claim it to be a time-saving factor, it is better to stick to more accepted methods and preserve one’s thumb a little longer at least. Special pruning knives can be purchased and these can later come in handy for grafting. Again sharpness of blade is imperative for professional effectiveness. Healing Wounds Having completed all cutting, the wounds should be sealed. Ideally this should apply to all cuts but this is not feasible. Only those from Jin in diameter upwards need be attended to. There are quite a number of materials which can be applied. Of recent years the proprietary petroleum jellies have become popular because of ease of use. Bituminous paints, hot and “cold” waxes and even lead paint have been, and still are, much used.

A simple recipe for a “cold” wax is: Resin 21b, beeswax 11b, talc ilb, methylated spirits i pint. Melt the resin and then add the beeswax. When melted, keep stirred but remove from heat and add the talc, which should have been warmed separately at the same time. Remove from the vicinity of the heating agent and add the methylated spirits, continuing to stir all the time. Store in an airtight container in a cool place. Subsequent application should be by means of a stiff brush. Finally, it has just occurred to me as an afterthought to mention ladders—normally a necessity if one is to satisfactorily reach most of the topmost branches. If possible procure a long step ladder as the ordinary ladder must be supported and the frame w’ork of the tree is definitely not reccommended because of the likelihood of damage both to tree and yourself.