Garden Notes DISBUDDING IS GOOD FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Press, Volume XCV, Issue 28261, 26 April 1957, Page 8

Garden Notes DISBUDDING IS GOOD FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS

[Specially written for “The Press"}

[By

T. D. LENNIE,

A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.]

Friday, April 26, 1957. It is pleasing to see chrysanthemum buds building up and beginning to show colour. Where the clumps have been left alone the stems will be crowned with clusters of buds, with the principal crown bud plumper and more advanced than its numerous lower buds.

To leave these alone without some restriction means a crowded clump and a waste of most valuable plant energy, whereas if each stem is stripped of all but the crown or main bud, a much better flower will result. This disbudding should of course have been done two or three weeks ago, but it is not yet too late to act. Chrysanthemums in pots or boxes should now be removed to the shelter of greenhouse or veranda before frost damage occurs. Layers can be taken off border carnations and the plants put out in permanent positions. The season has been very favourable for their growth. Old clumps of polyanthus and auricula can be broken up for replanting. Lilies can be planted. They will do well enough in a position of semi-shade. Planting should be from three to five inches deep in a well-drained position. Most failures can be traced to planting in a cold, wet soil, for lilies dislike a stagnant home. That is conducive to basal rot and decay.

Plant flowering bulbs as space offers. The old favourites, anemones and ranunculus, need little space. They can be set in rows or massed at six inches apart, and will make a bright display yet not interfere with the planting of summer border plants in October. The many other Ipvely spring bulbs should be thought of, for tulips, hyacinths, narcissus, ixias, Watsonias, freezias, etc., can not be beaten in their season. A bed of any of these will be charming when spring opens their lovely blossoms of such great variety. When drier weather permits, lawn work can be done. Topdressing of existing lawns may be a suitable job that should not be deferred, for it is not work for wet weather. The same applies to lawn sowing. This can only be successful when the prepared soil is dry enough for raking and levelling. It is possible that the winter may be open and free of hard frosts, but that cannot be relied on.

Where moss' is present on the shaded end of the' lawn, water that part with a solution of sulphate of iron at loz to a gallon of water. This is to correct soil acidity, after which the moss will disappear. This is an opportune time to effect necessary repairs or alterations to paths, trellis, pergolas, or climbers’ supports. Plants in the way can be let down for a time.

Give the rockery attention. Couch grass must be fought by lifting plants if necessary, and replanting when cleared of weed. Many ordinary garden plants would be better sited on the rockery and impart, a telling variation, too. Some bulbs such as freezias, crocus, tritonias, dwarf iris, sparaxis, lackenalia, and dwarf narcissus are excellent, as also are primulus, auriculas, polyanthus, aubretia, and dwarf campanulas. VEGETABLE GARDEN

We are lucky this year to have reached the end of autumn without a damaging frost, but as growth is about finished, sizeable fruits of cucumber, vegetable marrow, pumpkin and tomatoes, should be removed under cover for winter storage. Tomatoes, like onions, should be strung -up for ripening. This surely is a year of big things in the garden. The overabundant moisture of the last three months is responsible. Potatoes and fruit, especially, have benefited by the continued late growth, and have produced correspondingly big specimens. It will be surprising if the potato crop does not rivr'l apple and pear in its plenitude. Protection from caterpillar grubs should be applied to cabbage and broccoli leaves, for big grubs and snails are now on the prowl. Clear away bottom ground leaves on lettuce and similar plants, for that is where many pests congregate. Watch for aphis on Brussels sprouts, and spray nicotine sulphate. Do not remove top leaves from them, but lower ones can be removed. This removal of bottom yellowing leaves from all kinds of the cabbage family is important where the plants are in any way crowded. Where sprouts are forming soft and open it may be due to a . potash deficiency in the soil so add a handful of potash to the watering.

Stems of asparagus, carrying red coloured seeds should be removed as these seeds should not be allowed to fall on the bed. Any vacant spaces should be sown in a green crop of barley without delay, or, failing this, dig over the area roughly. Most garden litter can usefully be included in the compost bin, burning the coarser stems. Quite a profusion of waste stuff is available for compost at this season of the year. Even if made into a rough heap in a corner, much useful material will result by spring. Fallen leaves are invaluable for this purpose. Add lime and water with a soil covering. Quite a lot of stalky material is best burned and the ash spread on the compost heap, where it will add a valuable quota of potash to the soil. Broad beans and early peas can be sown with the possible addition of onion, silver beet, winter spinach, and parsley. Runner beans can be finally taken down and the pods saved for seed. Peas should not be sown on the same ground as the former crop. FRUIT GARDEN Strawberry planting can be done. Rows should be at least two feet apart, with 15 inches between plants. The position should be warm or well drained, and, of course, enriched with farm manure dug in. Raspberry beds should be cleaned up by removing all but six to eight of the best young canes. Most apple and pear crops can now be gathered and stored. Exceptions would be Napoleon and winter cole pears. Sturmer, Alfriston, and similar late apples. Pruning can be begun by removing dead wood and crowded growths. If much dead wood appears on peach or nectarine, suspect silver blight, and get an expert opinion before the leaves fall. NEW GUINEA BEAN The uncommon thing is always fascinating so that a specimen fruit of the New Guinea bean exhibited lately in a local seedstore window has attracted much attention, chiefly because of its rarity. It is really a cucumber, not a bean at all, and I have to go back 20 years to think of another being grown in Christchurch. The specimen exhibited was 4sft in length, with a diameter of 4in and weighed more than 81b. It was grown by Mrs M. Arnott, of Rochdale street, Fendalton, in the open, but had a trellis as it is a climbing plant like the ordinary cucumber. I am not sure whether it is useful, although it would probably be used as food by the natives in its wild state. The other specimen I refer to was grown at Buxton’s Belfast nursery in a greenhouse with supports, and grew a straight shapely fruit 6ft long. Reference to my library tells me nothing about it, so that it apparently is not a commercial asset, but it would create something of a sensation as a cucumber on the show bench. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Lavaud street, Akaroa.—The seed sent in is the Orache or Mountain spinach, of which there is both a green and purple-leaved form—the latter quite a telling plant on the flower border. This spinach is not much grown, and very much resembles the common fat hen weed—a garden plague. St. James’ avenue, Papanui.—(l) Sow some of the aster seed now in a warm, sheltered position, with the intention of transplanting some of the stronger plants in spring to a chosen bed for flowering. Then make another sowing in August for a following autumn display. (2) Follow the same ritual with your lettuce seed.