IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXI, Issue 21420, 12 March 1935, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (specially written" for the press.) [By W. J. HUMM.] ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Gardener. Sefton —'Hie (specimen sent in is Spinm-ia oleracea var Ourach (the mountain spinach). 'l'llis will never give trouble if seedlings get about. They are easily eradicated. 60 Longfellow street—Von may divide the seakale as soon as the leaves die down. The usual practice is to make cuttings of the roots, about four inches long, and to use roots a little thicker than a lead pencil. Plant these one inch apart. The top of the cutting should be one inch below the surface, and as soon as roots appear they may be planted in their permanent, quarters. Seakalc may also he raised from seed. Seakalc may be blanched in the bed in which it is growin". The end of August is the time to do this. Cover the crowns with dry straw or leaves, and over this place a box or largo pot to exclude the light. Jf stable manure is placed around the - pots oi J boxes it, will force the growth and make them more succulent. Gros Colrnau, Kedcliffs —Flowers of sulphur is the best control for mildew on grapes. Dust this through the bunches when the fruit is ripening. The soil should be kept in a moist condition, neither too wet nor too dry. The fruit will then have a much belter flavour. If the laterals and sub-l:iterals have been restricted during the summer, as they should have been, there is no advantage to remove these now. Leaves play a very important part in maturing the fruit. it is not necessary for the sun to shine on the fruit to ripen it. In many varieties the fruit is a better colour if shaded. K.K., Timaru— Old conns of anemones ore seldom a success. Urpen seedlings planted jio'w give the best results. Dry corms, a little larger than a pea, are also quite good. Anemones are best treated as annuals. It is not necessary in raise ranunculus from seed each year. The ones taken up should flower quite well if the position suits them. VEGETABLES The weather is ideal for the destruction of weeds. Keep the hoe going through all growing crops. This will do much to keep the plants, healthy and put them in a thriving condition before the winter gels hold of them. All vacant plots should be dug over, and those not required for future crop may be sown with a green crop to be dug in later. Carrots which have matured should be lifted and stored m the usual way, as if they are allowed to remain in the ground they often split and lose the flavour. Dry sand is excellent to store them in. Clean and thin young crops sown»for winter and spring use. The last, sowing for I the season of spinach should be put in at once. The bed should be well enriched and deeply dug. Make the ground firm by treading, and sow in drills 15 inches apart. Dust seedling cabbage and cauliflower plants with arsenate of lead to keep the diamondback moth at bay. Lettuce may still be sown to stand through the winter. Earth up early celery and all plants should be sprayed with colloidal sulphur as a precautionary measure against rust. Use one ounce to four gallons of water, and continue to apply liquid manure every third watering. Continue to sow onions to stand through the winter. The yellow fleshed turnips may still be sown. Do not forget to dust a little superphosphate through the soil before sowing. Turnips. to be at their best, should be grown quickly. As the onions become fit they should be lifted, dried, and stored. Cabbage and cauliflower may be encouraged to grow by watering them frequently with water containing sulphate of ammonia at the rate of one ounce lo the gallon. All this class of planls will do much better if the soil about them is firm. The growth is also improved by moulding them up. THE GLASSHOUSE Tuberous begonias have done well this season. Many of the plants will require frequent attention in the way of supplying them with liquid manure. By this means plants which have exhausted the food supplies in the soil may be keot in flower for some time yet. Go over the plants occasionally and remove all seed pods as well as flower stems and faded leaves. Turn the plants frequently so as to expose the leaves to the light and air. The seedling begonias raised last spring should by now be in full bloom. Mark the good varieties and discard those not up to standard. There is no satisfaction in growing those which are second-rate. They take just as much house room and attention as the better varieties. As soon as the pelargoniums and geraniums, which were cut back, begin to make new growth, they may be knocked out and repotted. Trim back the roots by one half as this will allow the plants to be repotted into smaller sized pots. This will rejuvenate the plants and they may be potted without having to use overlarge pots. Hybrid calceolarias should by now be ready to put into small pots. The compost should consist of sweet loam, leaf mould, and course sand, mixed with a little decayed cow manure, the whole rubbed through a sieve. Place the plants in a cool frame and never let them get dry at the roots, as if this happens they will become affected with green aphis. A moist, cool atmosphere is necessary for these plants. Primulas, both the Japanese and Chinese sorts, are now well on their way, and many of them are throwing up flower spikes. These should be pinched out as allowing them to develop robs the plants of much energy which should be directed in building up vegetative growth. Give the plant room to develop, as good healthy foliage is essential. An overdose of water will often cause collar rot. Do not shower the plants overhead; watering them individually is the best. Keep fuchsias flowering by giving them liquid manure, as cold water is not enough to keep these flowers healthy. Pot on the young fuchsia plants so they may flower well into the winter. Cyclamen need frequent attention, and should be potted now. Give special attention to the young plants. These do not require large pots. Keep the plant cool and spray overhead during hot weather. Pot on cinerarias, as they need it, and keep the plant growing. If thesie plants are half starved during the early period of their life they never fully recover and never bloom to satisfaction. As the sun loses power mr.ch of the shading must be removed from the houses and frames. Pelargonium, geranium, heaths, and schizanthus must have direct light during the winter months. Lachenalias may still be planted in pots, pans, or hanging baskets. Plenty of drainage must be given or the plants will not thrive. After potting, stand them in ashes in a cool frame. Examine the early potted freesia bulbs if top growth has started. The covering material should be removed, or the grass will become drawn and weak. Do not remove them to the house yet. They are quite safe in the frame. From now on watering will need to be done with care; evaporation is not as rapid as in the summer months, and a plant overwatered now resents it. very much. Showering overhead should now be done with care. Individual watering gives best results at this season of the year.

FLOWEKS At this time ot the year many gardens arc not as interesting as they may be. This can often be traced to the fact that those responsible for the lay-out did not give the foundation plans the consideration they justify, li one wishes the garden to be cfTective the whole year through, one must Igive the selection of shrubs careful consideration. The majority of (lowering shrubs make their display during September and October, and many people being caotivated by their beauty Aen will visit the nurseries and order plants which they sec in bloom during their visit. The result very often is that their garden will only be effective during a few months in spring. By doing this they are not getting the best out of their gardens. All flowering trees and shrubs have their set flowering periods; they do not dodge from one month to another; in fact, plants flower to date with unfailing regularity, and by careful selection one may have plants giving effect with their flowers, foliage, or fruit the full year round. During the last 20 years there have been plant collectors sent to China to collect, and the result of these expeditions have been wonderful. In the past, hundreds of new plants have been sent to England by these plant collectors. Nurserymen there have propagated them, and now the cream of these plants are being imported into this country by both nurserymen and private people. Then again many new plants are raised by the hybridist. To-day we have many new varieties of plants which were produced by cross-fertilisation. A few years ago it was only possible to procure two or three varieties of lilac, now more than 40 varieties of these plants are procurable in this country. The same applies to hydrangeas and many other families. With the addition of these newcomers plants may be selected which will give a continuity of effect over the four seasons. Garden makers would be well advised to make themselves conversant with what may be had, before planning their future plantings. Blue flowered shrubs are invaluable towards the end of the summer. There are caryopteris mastacanthus and several ceratostigmas in flower at the present; time. The variety Willmattiana is worth considering. Ceanothus also have their autumn flowering varieties, and these are very effective with none more so that the hybrid, Gloire de Versailles. Although this is not a newcomer it is still hard to beat as an autumn blue flowering shrub. The variety fretheyii is light pink and very free flowering. The variety rosea is very bright, of symmetrical growth, and very free flowering. Yellow flowered subjects are represented by Hypericum Henryii and patulum var Forestu. Among the hydrangeas, apart from those usually met with in gardens, the species hydrangea paniculata and grandiflora are excellent. With their bold flower heads opening a pale primrose, changing to white and fading to a soft pink, these two species are delightful in their shade and perfectly hardy. Autumn flowering bulbs should not be overlooked. Chief among these are the colchicums, known as meadow saffron. These are often confused with the autumn crocus, which are quite a distinct family of plants. Colchicums are useful flowers and last well when cut. For massing the variety autumnale is valuable, the colour is purple mauve, the giants of the race being colchicum speciosum, and its white form album. These two are outstanding. Amaryllis are showy, and where the soil is to their liking they flower well. Yellow is represented in sternbergia lutea. This is another bulbous plant of singular beauty, Zephyranthes Candida is another crocus-like plant, bearing masses of pure white flowers. It is perfectly hardy and free flowering.