IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXI, Issue 21414, 5 March 1935, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (SPECIALLY WRITTEN FOK THt, V'RESS.I CBy W. J. HUMM.J ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS S.E. St. Albans.—The specimen sent in is convolvus arvensis (combine). This is an introduced weed. 11. is a most, difficult weed to eradicate. The, best way to deal with it is to prevent any green leaf reaelun.u the surface for the whole season. If leaves arc allowed to appear they send nutriment down to tho underground slums. This will enable the plant to survive. 72 Mansfield avenue.—(l) The best way to establish portulaca on the path would be by sowing- tho seed. The end of October would be a suitable time to do this. Procure new seed, as old seed loses its vitality quickly, and seldom germinates to satisfaction. (.") Yes, Epsom salts will control leaf curl on the nectarine tree if watered. Use three packets to four Rations of water. (.hvo threo applications at. intervals of two weeks, just before and after the leaves appear.

FLOWERS The principal work in the flower garden at present should be tidying up. In many cases where plants are past their (lowering period they look most untidy. Seed pods and withering stems pud roliage tend to give a garden an uncarcd for appearance. R docs not require many of such plants to mar tho effect of a good garden. Slake and tie up perennials which require it. Chrysanthemums, dahlias, Michaelmas daisies, and rudbeckias require frequent altention in this direct nil. The genera! effect of these plants is often lost by letting them sprawl about at will. Keep the hoe going. After autumn rains there is always a good germination of weed seeds. These should not be allowed to develop. Destroy them at. once. By hoeing Ihe soil frequently at this season nl the year manv weed seeds are brought' 1o the surface-. These WiM I'.errninale ami ma;.' he destroyed vitv easily. Vacancies in Ihe horder<: mav now he filled up with sneli plan's a,- sweet william, hollyhocks. Canter bun' bells, periislomous Iceland poppies. The plan! im: of all soring (lowering bulbs should be finished as soon as possible now. The early-flowering gladioli are useful. They give a continuity of effect afier the spring flowers have finished their display. The bulbs may be planted at once. Nc Phis Ultra. Peach Blossom, and The Bride are distinct colours, and well worth planting. Lilies which are past (.lowering may be planted at once. Do not remove the flower stems or leaves, as thesj will encourage the bulbs to make root.-,. They will then become established before winter sets in. Planting lilies in cold soil in the dead of winter is the cause of many lilies not doing well. All kinds of lilies are greatly improved if the bulbs are surrounded by sharp sand. On no account should manure of any sort come in contact with the bulbs. Rudbeckias have flowered exceptionally well this season. The hot, dry weather is to their liking. Rudbeckia Herbstonc is one of the newer kinds. At present this variety is making a splendid show with its lm-ge, pure golden, daisy-like flowers. It is a tall grower and looks its best if given a position at the back of the border. Rudbeckia Newmanii seldom grows higher than 18 inches. The flowers are orange yellow with black centres, and they are quite good for cutting. Those who intend putting down lawns this autumn would be well advised to get on with the work at once, and prepare the ground to receive the seed. These may be sown any time now after a good rain.

If the ground has been trenched in spring and kept well cultivated during the summer it should by now be settled down and in good condition to receive the seed. If a crop of potatoes has occupied it during the summer do not attempt to sow until after a good rain. All the rolling and heeling one can put into it will not settle it down as quickly as "a good rain. The secret in getting level lawns is by levelling the soil well ahead of sowing. A linn seed bed is also essential for the germination of the seed. There are many seed mixtures used for sowing lawns, some having many kinds of grass seed in their make up, and many of the cheaper mixtures contain much seed of coarse-growing kinds. These coarsegrowing grasses never give a fine lawn. A mixture which gives good results is 91b of Chewings fescue and lib of Brown Top. Sow this at the rate of lib to 15 square yards. If possible procure -seed harvested this year, as it germinates much quicker than old seed. Before rowing rub red lead over the seed. This will prevent the birds from taking it. When sowing, it is advisable to divide the seed into two equal parts. Sow one half evenly all over the plot, and then do the same with the remaining half, sowing in the opposite direction from the first sowing. This ensures an even distribution. The seed should be then

raked in. Carnations which were layered and well rooted may now be lifted and planted in their permanent positions. Jf you wish to - have sweet peas in bloom early next season, sow the seed now. The first and second week in March is considered the best time. VEGETABLES The recent rains have been a great benefit. Growing crops are much improved. Assist them to make still further progress by using the hoe frequently. Encourage as much growth as possible before winter sets in. Keep up a tidy appearance throughout the garden by removing all spent crops. Cabbage stumps, withered seakaie, and rhubarb leaves all tend to harbour insect foes, and should be removed and burnt. Winter rhubarb should receive a good soaking with liquid manure. This will do much to keep the plant in robust health. It is not too late to make a sowing of parsley. Cuttings of sage and thyme, if put in now, will strike freely.

Continue to sow lettuce to stand the winter. Make further sowings of carrots. These will come in during the winter. Yellow-fleshed turnips are useful. Get the seed in now. Continue to sow lettuce, onion, and radish for salid purposes. Onions to stand through the winter and produce crops early next year should be sown now. Green vegetables will, be scarce next spring. Sow a pinch of seed now. Lift, and harvest onions. These must be well dried before storing. Continue to earth up celery and leeks as they need it. Cut and store marrows as they ripen. Lift and store potatoes as they ripen. Do not cut the tops oft the asparagus until it turns brown. Many people, when clearing away spent crops, often rio this, but it is a great mistake. The more vigorous the tops are during the summer months and the later they build vigour into the roots, the more prolific will be next season's crop. Asparagus is never a success unless a vigorous, healthy top growth is maintained during the whole of the summer and autumn months. THE ROCK GARDEN The construction of a rock garden is quite a simple undertaking, provided the needs of the plants are understood. Rock gardens are of all sizes, from several acres in extent down to those which are only a yard or two in extent. No matter what size or shape the rock garden is, the two absolute essentials are an open position and perfect drainage. Never try to grow rock and alpine plants under trees. In their native habitat they are subject

to full exposure and are never under trees. The majority of these little alpine subjects love sun and air. There is nothing so fatal to them as drip, and if subject to this they never stay long. Large trees not only rob them of sunlight, but the roots find their way into the pockets and also rob them of any nutriment in the soil. In the autumn the falling leaves are also detrimental to the health of the plants. Rock plants subject to these conditions will lead but a sickly existence. Perfect drainage is the other essential. Without this rock plants will never thrive. Although water is necessary to the well being of alpines, they absolutely abhor stagnation at their roots. If this should take place during the winter months it would go hard with many of the plants. When growing in their native home, they are constantly kept moist by the melting snow above and the many showers and_ the mist to which high ranges are subject.

They grow in alpine soil and beneath this is pure grit and into this these plants extend their roots. With these conditions they receive perfect drainage. The next essential is to give the plants good soil to root in. The average soil will not satisfy these little people of the hills. A suitable mixture for the inside and pockets and acceptable to most rock plants is a compost made up with sweet loam, leaf mould or peat, sharp sand, and old mortar or crushed shell. About 90 per cent, of alpines like lime, and if some sharp grit could be added so much the better, as Ihis keeps the soil cool and adds drainage. Select the position; take out about two feet of the soil; then at the bottom lay a foundation of rough broken rocks, bricks, or any rubble to give drainage. This should be at least nine inches thick. Then in on the top of this goes the prepared soil; now the next job is getting the stone. Weathered stone off the hills is preferable to quarried stone, but whichever is selected, see that it is of a hard nature. Crumbly soft stone is of little value for permanent rock work. A great mistake made by many is the using of too many rocks. Many people build rockeries instead of rock gardens. There is a vast difference. Now about placing the rocks. S'tudv an outcrop of rock on a hillside, and you will discover that they have a certain system. They are half buried in the soil and always lying on the heaviest face. Construct your garden on similar system. Use rocks of various sizes and make the pocket large enough to accommodate several plants. Never place the rocks on their ends and always so as to run the water in the pocket. Bury the rocks halfway in the soil and make them absolutely firm. Air pockets are fatal Architectural beauty is not the first consideration. Your rock garden must be a home for the plant and when constructing it see that provision is made for the growing of the various types to be found among the alpine family. Unless it is to be a large layout, an elevation of two to three feet will be high enough. The size of the rock garden should always govern the height. A small garden with high elevation is not good, for its dries out too quickly. LIQUID MANURING

Plants and crops in the flower and vegetable garden can be kept in excellent condition even under drought conditions by systematic liquid manuring. The best, most economical, cleanly, and easily handled ingredient for making liquid manure is Concentrated Tankage. It is an organic nitrogenous fertiliser, being the "soup" resulting from the processing and cooking of animal offal at our freezing works, solidified into a fine powder by the process of evaporation. It is exceptionally rich in nitrogen and iron, and two ounces dissolved in a gallon of water (it will dissolve more quickly if hot water is used) makes the ideal liquid manure. Packed in attractive and useful little buckets containing 71b of the Tankage, it will keep indefinitely, and is procurable from seedsmen, merchants, and stores. Fuli information can be procured from the manufacturers, the New Zealand Refrigerating Co., Lld„ Christchui.i