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IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (»PKCTAI.I>T VTRITTZH »OB TH» PSBM.) [By J. T. Sinclair.] ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. gK—lf the "fairy rings" on your I» w " are of 110 great extent, a simple method to get rid of them is to dig out the soil to a depth of oae foot, and replace with fresh soil from another part of the garden. If dono now, you may bo able to spa-re sorot turf from a less conspicuous place on your lawn to fix up the bare patches. Another method, and one that has met with a measure of success, is (o dress with a 'solution of sulphate of iron —one pound to one and a half gallons of water. Saturate thoroughly quite three times at fortnightly intervals. This treatment is better done in the autumn. VEGETABLES. A lot of time will bo taken up just now in the thinning of tho different crops and hosing them to keep down wends; and here I may sny, like every' thing else, there is a right and :i wrens way to go about the job if tho garden is to be kept free from those troublesome pests. During dry weather it is quite a simple matter t.o eradicate weeds by continual hoeing, but during a long wet spell it is not so easy to keep theai down. In this case hand-weeding should be resorted to, but instead of taking out the small woods ho content to pull all Ihe big ones, thereby preventing them from going to seed, and when the first good drying day comes along get the hoe going, and that, combined with a fair amount of c.-.how grease, will soon settle the small lry. A garden overrun with weeds loses a great deal of its interest. Tomatoes will be growing well now and some method of supporting them off the ground will need considering. For a small number of plants perhaps stakes are best, but where a fairly large number are grown a few fairly strong posts, placed at intervals of four or five yards, with wires stretched from post to post, are to be preferred. Stays should be placed to tho _ OII ° posts, as there is a considerable weight to carry when the crop is a good oneExtra wires can be added as tho plants grow. In the meantime give a tie to tho first wiro and rub out all side shoots as the work of tying proceeds. Posts and wires, if taken care of, will last for years. The cutting of asparagus should cease now and ©very encouragement should be given the plants to make good growth. The beds must be kept free from weeds, and if the weather proves dry a good soaking of water should be given occasionally. A sprinkling of salt may be given to beds on well-drained ground, but salt is better not used on beds in cold, wet ground, as salt will only help to make this ground colder. As the plants grow, some support should bo given to save them from being twisted and blown about by the wind. A few stakes and binder twino will answer the purpose very well. CJelerv plants should bo got out before they begin to get starved in the boxes. When planting, give a. good watering a few hours before "beginning this work, and if the weather is dry give water freely. Ground for leeks should, if not already in order, be prepared for these plants, for if good-sized specimens are to be grown a good start should be made. Leeks like plenty of rich manure, so see that a good supnly o* this is worked into the soil for them. Cucumbers in frames or houses will bo in full bearing now. and they will benefit by a top-dressing of rich soil to the roots; also by periodical waterings with manure water that should be slightly warm.

FLOWERS. Brompton stocks, for making a good display in Isovomber unci December, are to bo recommended, fc'*ut as a long period of growth, is required seed should be sown at the present time. This can bo sown outside, or in boxes, and placed in a cold frame until germination takes place, but treating quit® hardily at all times. When large enough the plants can be placed where ifc is intended they shall flower. Columbines or aquilegias are the most useful plants in flower at the present time. Not only are they of use in the flower borders, but for cutting for roses the Jong-spurred varieties would be hard to beat, lending themselves so well for decorations of all sorts, and also lasting well when cut. The oldfashioned columbine is rather out of date now, but it is quite useful lor the wilder parts of the garden or semi-shaded woodland. It is au easy matter to raise aquilegias from seed, and the present is a good time to put in seed for next year's flowering. They can be sown either outside or in boxes, as desired. If sowu outside choose a fairly shady place and sow thinly, so that there will be no necessity to transplant the young plants in the early stages of their growth. Here they may remain until the spring, when they should be removed to their flowering quarters. The only attention they will need during the summer is an occasional hoeing and to be kept free from weeds; also plenty of water if the weather should be dry. As well as the long-spurred hybrids, there are some other varieties that are equally beautiful and useful. Ororulea is bine ami white; glandulosa is also blue and ■white, but has a dwarf nature. Clirysantha, golden vellow, and Skinneri have blossoms of yellowish, green and scarlet. Wallflowers —For brightness and sweet perfume in the spring monihs there are few plants to excel wallflowers. To have plants of good size to replace the summer occupants of the flower beds when these are over, seeds of several colours should be sown at the present time. They can be sown outside, or in boxes, whichever is most convenient. If sown outside sow thinly in rows, and when large enough, transplant into ground, eighteen inches between the rows, and one foot apart in the rows. Transplanting helps tho plants to form plenty of fibrous roots, which is so essential with these plants when removing to their flowering quarters in the autumn. When the young plants have started to prow well 111 the rows, nip out the points of each to encourage a bushy habit of growth in the plants. The usual hoeing and weeding is all that will be necessary during tho summer months, unless the weather proves exceptionally dry, when watering will be necessary. Wallflowers can be associated with other plants, but I think they always look best in beds by themselves, with perhaps an edging of dwarf Forget-me-nots or Polyanthus, using the light or dark colours of the latter, according to the colour of the wallflowers so that contrast is obtained. Besides the ordinary mixed varieties, there are quite a number of named sorts, a few of which are mentioned for the guidance of those who have not previously grown these plants. Orange Bedder is a fairly dwarf variety, the colour being an orange apricot as nearly as I can describe it Fire King, vivid orange. Clotb of Gold is a good rich yellow, and most effective in a bed edged with forget-me-nots. Blood red, if a good strain is obtained, is charmine • • but sometimes it comes striped with vellow. which mars the effect somewhat. Another good dark variety is giant vulcan. B two yellows are

wanted, Belvoir Castle can be added to the one already mentioned. The above will, I think, meet the requirements of most amateurs. If extra early flowers are desired, Phoenix and Mellow Phoenix can be tried, the former being chestnut colour. The Siberian wallflower (cherianthus allionii) requires exactly the same treatment as those already described, but as this 53 in flower over a longer period, »t is advisable to plant where ifc will not come in the way of the summer bedding plants. greenhouse. Chrysanthemums— Aa soon as these are well rooted in sis-inch pots, they should be transferred to the ones they are intended to flower in. These are usually of nine-inch size, bub pots up to ten-inches may, with advantage, be used for extra strong plants. Where pots are not too plentiful, Kerosene tins and old oil drums cut in half make excellent substitutes. The latter, if given a coat of paint occasionally, will last for years. Later plants can b© accommodated in pots oi eightinch diameter. The Boil to be used can bo made up of three parts of good turfy loam, not too light, and one part of good leaf-mould, and old hotbed manure. Add a five-inch pot of bonedust to every bushel of soil; also if mortar rubble and charcoal are available, enough of these can be added to keep tho whole open and sweet. Give the heap a good mixing by turning . several times, and when ready for potting, the soil should bo neither too wet nor too dry. When placing in the pots ram the soil fairly firm, so that sturdy, hard growth may be obtained. The plants can be placed closely together for_ the present in a well " sheltered position from winds, and open to full sunshine. Put a suitable stake to each plant, and take off all side growths but the three strongest on those plants intended for the production of large blooms. If the soil is in the right state, no water should be given for a day or two. A damping over with the syringe in the afternoon will suffice. I should mention that proper drainage should be arranged for. as once the pots are filled with roots, copious waterings will b® needed during the hot weather.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19301209.2.53

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Press, Volume LXVI, Issue 20106, 9 December 1930, Page 8

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,653

IN THE GARDEN. Press, Volume LXVI, Issue 20106, 9 December 1930, Page 8

IN THE GARDEN. Press, Volume LXVI, Issue 20106, 9 December 1930, Page 8

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