IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXI, Issue 18403, 9 June 1925, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

(bWCIALLT WRITTEX JTOR "TEI PMSS.")

(Bt J. T. Sinclair.)

I ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. H.S.—Yes, you are quite right—root crops should be frequently examined to 82e if they are in good condition. Any root? showing any eign of decay should be at once removed, as often cavss sound root 3 with which they are in contact to become imfit for use. Tamarisk.—lnsert the cuttings now in light, sandy loam outdoors. Make them about nine' inches !ong, and place them six inches apart in rows one foot asunder: leave one-third of their length above ground. Olcarias grow readily from cuttings if inserted iu sandy soil in a cold frame in March. VEGETABLES. Brussels Sprouts.—The decaying leaves should be taken off these, and any open, useless sprouts at tho same time. Do not, as is often done, cut off the tops of the plants until some time in spring. 'The stems will grow for some time yet, but not if the heads are taken off. Broccoli Stumps.—Directly the plants have been cut, the stumps should be dug out and burned, or laid in a heap and covered with lime. Either way they will niake good maure, but only impoverish the soil if left growing after the curds have been cut. Scakale. —The crowns growing in the permanent beds should now be covered withe some blanching material: straw, leaves, or sifted ashes can be employed. If the crowns are strong, a depth of at last eighteen inches should be put over them. The covering is sure to sink, but a few inches moro can be put on later. FRUIT. Pruning Apple and Pear Trees. —Both these trees produce their fruit on small branches called spurs'. By correct pruning it is possible to increase the number of these fruiting spurs, and thus increase the fruitfulness of the trees. With young trees the principal thing tho first few seasons is to get them into shape; fruit spurs then are only of secondary consideration. In most cases it is a mistake to allow young, trees to bear fruit until they get into some shape, and have some vigour. The main point in pruning trees that are in-full bearing is to prune them so that they will make fruit buds instead of too many wood buds; there aro generally a plentiful supply of the latter. It will be noticed that a number of small, twiggy growths are to be found growing laterally on the branches, and unless these are checked, and for the most part the centre of the tree will bo choked with weak growths in the coming season. Instead of removing all these growths entirely, they should he cut back to within two buds of their base. Shoots thus pruned will often produce fruit buds, and these are called artificial spurs. When too many longshoots are produced, hard pruning will encourage the tree to produce a greater number of similar shoots, and when this is the case root-pruning can be done so as to balance the tree in root and branch. Next week we shall have more to say about root-pruning. The leading shoots on the branches, too, will- require some shortening back in order to remove the, weak and unripened' buds usually found at the tips, and to eiir courage the firmer,buds, further back-to, break evenly, and thus furnish the tree with branches regularly placed. When the trees nave reached the desired height pruning need not be so severe, but all exhausted, misplaced, and overcrowded branches can be removed. No matter what kind of a tree we are working at, an effort must be made to .keep . the centre open, so that light and air shall gain admission to all parts of the tree, without ■■ which fruit buds cannot be formed or the fruit ripen. It will often have been no'ticed that fruit growing where the foliage is dense is often small and badly coloured. This is caused by lack of light and air, and not only is the fruit inferior in appearance, but is , also inferior in flavour. , FLOWERS. ; ~Frees}as.—These .and lachanelias which, were-potted in February are now; throwing up nice young growths. The pots should be placed in full light, so as to prevent the plants becoming drawn or weakly. It must be borne in mind that they must not suffer from want of water. This applies especially to the lachanelias. Bulbs.—Those that were potted early and plunged in ashes" must now be examined, and if an inch of growth has been made, remove the pots to a cold frame. For a week or so they must bo shaded from sunshine, and then given, all the light possible. If desired to get early flowers, the plants can be introduced into a warmer temperature in a very short time. Eoses.—Proceed with the planting of rose's in the open weather when the ground is in workable condition; avoid planting when it is saturated with rain or crusted with frost. Exposure of the roots to keen, frosty, or drying winds is also to bo avoided. Strong-growing kinds in established plantations may have their shoots shortened somewhat to prevent their being blown about by the wind while the soil is wet; to the damage of the plants. No general pruning should be done till spring, the exception of the rambling sorts, which may be thinned out if at all overcrowded. Cinerarias. —Plants that are .throwing up their flowering. stems should be assisted with a little liquid manure. It should be given weak and changed frequently. To prevent the'flower stalks becoming unduly long, .the plants should be stood as near the glass as they can with safety. The flowers sometimes get damaged by frost, • but if some slight covering is- provided at night they will be quite safe. Flower Borders.—Where these are going to he left undisturbed, the top soil between the plants should- be lightly pricked over with a fork, and the surface covered with a dressing of short, well-decayed manure. The winter rains will cause the virtue of this to be worked down to the roots, and in the spring the remaining 'manure can be forked into the soil. Sehizanthus coming into flower should be moved into the warm end of the greenhouse, or the flower may damp. This especially applies' to unheated structures. Window plants placed near a window are sure to become lopsided, especially in a room warmed by a fire. They should be turned Tound a little twice I a week, so that every side.gets a fair I share of light.