IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXI, Issue 18362, 21 April 1925, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (SPICUXLI WRITTEN TO3 "THE JBKSS.") (By J. T. Sinclair.) \ ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS T\\F. —Y&ur celery is badly attacked by the celery rust, and '-V' worst of it is' it is too late now to remedy matters. Another time, after the plants are halfgrown, spray them with Bordeaux Mixture. Even now. if you have not got your plants fully earthed up, it will pay you to spray the plants, and you will thereby partly stop the disease front descending' into the stems. Do not plant the same ground with celery for two or three years. Waltham.— Regarding the lift-in? and storing of carrots see next week's gardening column. VEGETABLES. Celery.—Owing to the absence of moisture during the period that most growers expect celery to make most of its growth, in many gardens at the present time the promise of good sticks is far from rosy; therefore, except in those cases where circumstances demand well-blanched sticks at the earliest possible date, I advise readers not to be in too great a hurry to give their rows the final soiling up, for after this is added very little further growth need be looked for. If the rows are kept open and well supplied with manure water for another three weeks, much growth will be made, and ample time still remain to ensure perfectly blanched specimens by the shortest day. Early Broccoli.—Careful attention should be given to late cauliflower and edrly broccoli in order to protect the crowns from frost. The usual method of protection by partly breaking and laying over the heads their own foliage is sufficient to ward off a few degrees of frost or to lessen the injury which may be caused by exposure to heavy rains. Artichokes. —The Globe variety of this somewhat neglected class of vegetable should now have the tops cut down level with the soil, after which a bucketful of finely-sifted ashes is placed over each root to ensure its safetj' during unusually severe frosts. It is advisable that this should be done soon; although on light soils in this district this vegetable may be depended upon to pass the winter unharmed, on cold, heavy soils protection of some kind is absolutely necessary.

FRUIT. Lifting Trees. —It frequently happens that fruit trees that have been planted a few years make exceedingly gross wood which never produces fruit buds. This is often, the case when the roots go down into a wet subsoil. Any trees that require lifting may be operated on now. Stone fruit can be done the first half of April, and apples and pears during the latter half. Trees done then, before all the foliage is off, begin to make fibrous roots straight away. They must, however, be moved carefully. It must be distinctly understood that the trees must be planted again at once, before the fibrous roots and soil become dry, otherwise the wood will shrivel. Advantage should be taken to cut back any strong roots and to lift into a horizontal position those that have a tendency to go downwards. Carefully trim with a sharp ' knife all roots that are damaged during the process of lifting. Some old mortar rubbish can be mixed with the soil for stone fruit. If the foliage is syringed once a day for a week it will'do a lot of good.

FLOWERS. Gladioli—When such bulbs as daffodils are planted in the border they are generally in fairly large clumps, so it is easy to mark their position. With gladioli, however, it is different. Being tall plants they require more space, and though they are often massed, the bulbs are so far apart that after the tops die down they run the risk of being injured with the spade when left in the ground all winter. It is a good plan to lift the corms at least once every two years. This may be done as soon as the foliage withers. The plants should be laid out to dry for a few days, after which, the stems can be cut off. They should be sorted according to size, those not large enough to flower being kept for growing in a small bed' by themselves. They are best stored in boxes in dry sand. It preserves an even temperature, and, by excluding air, prevents the dryness from being • excessive. Violas. —These can be planted now for flowering in spring. Few flowers equal them for profuse, blooming, and for edgings for beds and borders they are unsurpassed. The ground must be well manured and deeply dug if many and fine flowers are desired, and the plants should be firmly planted, so that frost does not lift.them; this especially applies when the plants are set out in exposed situations. Chrysanthemums. —As the flowers expand and the weather becomes cooler, the admission of air must be gradually reduced. Front ventilation should be stopped' altogether, as direct draught over the flowers must be avoided. At the same time, a buoyant atmosphere should be maintained, as a close atmosphere seems to encourage damping of the petals. When plants require water, it should be given in the morning, and no water should be spilt on the floors or foliage. When the weather is frosty, give some artificial warmth, if it can be managed. Even a small oil lamp is of great assistance in preventing the condensation of moisture within the house. Lavender.—Old straggly plants can be taken up now and divided into as many pieces as can be got with roots attached to them and replanted then. They can be buried right up to the young wood, as they root freely from the o'd wood. The soil need not be very rich; in fact, a quantitv treated as above and planted m poor, stony soil has been known to produce three crops of blcom, while old plants produce but one crop ot bloom m one season. Ranunculuses.— Perhaps the chief reason why these are not more generally grown is because they are not well known. There can be no doubt, however that when the ranunculus is really well'grown it is very effective, and there iue signs that it.is coming into favour again The French, Turban, and Persian varieties are among the best, and can be planted during this month. The selection ia largely a matter of individual taste, but of these mentioned the Turban is the largest and earliest. As they bloom between the time of spring flowers and that of bedding sublets the flowers come in at a very acceptable time, providing we can spare a piece of ground for them. In a herbaceous border the flowers can be seen to advantage, and lend a real live colour to the greenery of the foliage of other plants. The roots consist of clusters of tiny tubers attached to the top, and must be planted claw side downwards. They should be planted from two to three inches deep and about four inehes apart. In cold, wet districts planting can be deferred till spring, as the roots are liable to be damaged by damp during winter. They are rarely satisfactory in heavy soil, yet, like most of the buttercup family, to which they belong, they require plenty of moisture while they are growing. For this reason, as well as to enrich the soil, plenty of welldecaved manure can be worked in the ground when it is being dug. The diggißjj (jjiftuld bjj s£?£» j