SOME UP-TO-DATE FANCIES.

Press, Volume LVIII, Issue 17419, 1 April 1922, Page 2

SOME UP-TO-DATE FANCIES.

FEATHER CASCADES.

(FIKJM OVn OWN CORRESPONDENT.) LONDON, February 14. People who are friends of the ostrich and seem to bo familiar with all his little idiosyncrasies stoutly maintain that he docs not really strive to disappear from view by burying his diminutive head in the sand. That's as maybe. Anyhow, if the ostrich could see some of the many freakish uses to which his naturally graceful feathers are being prut and the extraordinary effects obtained, he woidd certainly contrive to take his wliolo wrson into oblivion and he would bo particularly* careful to bury his tail and wings. Producers of millinery novelties must have devoted untold hours iri their desire to outvie one another in the treatment of tho ostrich plume. Callously regardless of the natural fluffy grace of tho fronds, soma novelty-contrivers have been at pains during past months to shear off all its beauty leaving just the bare spine and its skeleton —this has been glyeerined and hangs in straggly, draggled, miserable strings, yet it was bought immediately by those whose passion is for novel. At the beginning of the season the most remarkable novelty was a long curtain of feather fronds, quite a Niagara in effect, so long that they fell from tho back of a hat almost to the waist, and when the tint happened to be brown or henna, a more man might well have been forgiven if ho had the delusion that the wearer was sitting or walkings out-of-doors drvin£ her hair. Each frond has another frond knotted to it . until the desired length is attained ; the width of this cascade depends upon the length of the spine, the feather being placed across the back of a larige picture hat, and then from it the thick knotted fronds fall as a screen down the ba"k. These wondrous feathers are in white, black, and many colours, including, of course, what has been tho most select colour of recent times—fuchsia or magenta. Invariably, during the _ winter months, ostrich feathers (freakish or in the full grace of their natural beauty) have been allied to shapes of silk velvet. which has once more been tho leading fabric for all dress hats and nothing has really been found to rival it in while no happier union has ever been devised. There is still the inclination to nlace the feather across the back of a large shape at such an angle that the end droops lightly and gracefully toward the front of the right shoulder, but already some advance models are arriving from France and the feathers are being placed across the front of the upturned brims that are characteristic of many of the wide-fronted toques. Tufts and brushes are made of crane plumage, lightlv curled. having a fringed effect. Clipped ostrich or crane feather is used to line the brims of some of tho velvet shapes. and_ nothing ! more becoming could be imagined, especially when this underbrim is a rich shade and a colour-contrast to the outer velvet. Iridescent breast plumage is effective similarly used, or it may be arranged on the outer brim. A smart sailor shape of black panne had its underbrim lined with a fringe of white j crane feather that made a soft and j becoming background for a pretty face; ' while other small-brimmed hats of vari- | ous shapes are trimmed with 'wreaths of this pretty plumage. Peather Palms and Flowers. New and not unattractive are the long ostrich feathers which for half ! their length are shorn of their. fluffiness, the unshaven half finally curving upward as a saucy and tight curl, like the tail of a pug do£. Feather hat trimmings just over from Paris include large flat Pointscttia-shnped mounts, each starry petal being made of narrow and properly-shaped ostrich strands. This type of flower is very suitable for evening dress garniture. Another flower in ostrich —large, flat, and spreading—like a handsome single begonia, suitable for millinery or a dress finish, has come from Paris, its petals being kept in condition by their thin outline of silkcovered wire. It is. obtainable in many colourings. If one happens to pass a remark about the pity of denuding a graceful ostrich plume of its fluflraess and turr.« ing it into something freakish, instants ly cairns the reply: "It doesn't matter. There are heaps of them." V

But feathers and feather trimmings are not confined to milliners. Bagninkora have been bewitched their possibilities, with the result that there are handbags of cstrich feather, in many colours, set into frames of ivory or tortoiseshell or imitation substitutes, and lined with lovely silks replete with all the toilette aids that self-respectinj? ieticules are supposed' to possess. The feathers thus employed have either a clipped effect or else they look like a succession of flouncings. Clever people can easily make them at home, and then a variety in different colours is possible. Bough fx by the yard the leather flouncing is moderate in price, and a little patience will soon result in its attachment to a silk foundation. If the reticule %is ail open top instead of the more orthodox frame, it can have handles of ribbon.

Feather flouncings and knotted cascades form panels and panieis for evening dresses; lines of feathers border shawl wraps of silken weave; stage sunshades are outwardly . decorated with graduated rows of feather flouncing, and medallions of it are useful millinery assets, and so -are feather pompoms which are to be in vogue in the spring. Evening dress garnitures—huge chrysanthemums with incurved petals, and roses, are made of chiffon and feather, the wJiole forming a lovely flower, with a pendant trail—but one expects something striking and effective for the price of three guineas! The Rose Surprise is a beautiful dress ornament whose centre lifts out and reveals a powder puff. The floral bouquet with purse at the back is in increasing demand, r.nd it is as useful as it is ornamental. Dress "flowers" of ermine conibine with untidy black monkey fur, whose presence still is to be endured throughout the spring for a variety of purposes. Ostrich feathers are useful variants for head-dresses," which form a complete department in themselves, in a variety that is bewildering in its fascination. Many of them have a "weeping" tendency. Ostrich feathers, too. are used in a novel manner for table decorations. Miniature, but lifelike, ladies in ''revue" attire, support the wine list and the menu card, and these are dressed in finllo-t skirts made of ostrich in some rich hue or in black, and a headdress of nodding ostrich completes the outfit.

Soma Features of Millinery Models. Wholesale houses have their French models, but they are shown only as yet to the trade and to a favoured few. .Ylost of them are very attractive, and in the immediate future the practical shapes will be compact, larger brims being reserved for later. liven the small shapes have sufficient brim to shade the eyes, and of course they are to be worn well over the brow, in a line that softens the profile. Hatpins Bhould not be required unless as ornaments. There is a marked tendency for breadth from side to side, with a narrowing front and back. Even the largest shapes will have these features emphasised, whether they are made oC pliable chip, crinoline, horsehair, or shot silk. Line and proportion pe features of the utmost moment —trimmings don't appear to matter, but of course they do. They are so_ skilfully arranged that their presenoe is net obtrusive. Yet they are undoubtedly there —varying from a profuse halo of

There is much speculation at present as to what the establishment at Chesterfield House of Princess Mary as a young hostess will mean to society (says a London daily paper). Many of Princess Mary a young friends are hoping that she will initiate a new regime, in which brilliant enter taining will play an important part. She has, of course, so .far lived very much in the shade of her Royal parents. As a young married woman, witn society hoping for her to take the P'ostion of leader, she may decide to do many wonderful things- , Stie may, for instance, develop the interest in beautiful clothes which ' naturally, is only nascent in a young girl who has lived under the strict tutelage of family life. r It is only lately that Princess Mary has been "allowed to have a certain 1 measure of choice in the matter of her Cl °Peopie- who have been interested in her- have been delighted to notice that she shows decided preference for pretty, soft shades,' and that during the last year or two 6he has not been at all averse to reflecting prettily and moderately in her dresses little whims and vagaries of fashion. There are probably many little things which will make an immense appeal to the Princess when she begins her fairytale life at Chesterfield House as the most popular young married woman in London. Tilt is not generally known that Princess Mary has not been encouraged to make use of perfumes. _ Like any | other young girl in similar circumstances, the Princess was attracted to the many wonderful _ little_ bottles of crystal and porcelain in which delicate scents are bottled. A bottle of scent was, at one time, her idea of the perfect present. When she is installed at Chesterfield House this is probably one of the personal luxuries which Princess Mary will most keenly enjoy. On one point Pri:ncess_ Mary will probably encourage a fashion which has already set in.. Her Home sffreasures. Xjilce th© Queen, she talies "fcke gcrea'fcest interest in old and beautiful furniture and china. Many treasures with a history have been bought for Chesterfield House since the engagement to Viscount Lascellee was announced, and it is quite possible that the manner in which'the Princess chooses to arrange her London home may have a very definite effect on the history of English furniture. It would be an interesting result if artists and designers, stimulated by the Princess's love of beautiful , things, should initiate designs with which Princess Mary's name may become associfited.

Manv people who are talking over preseutr for the Princess are remembering this particular taste of hers, and are searching for old things of a beauty and. grace which will take their place with the other treasures of the kind already installed at Chesterfield House. Contrary to general belief, Princess Mary has not an overwhelming interest in the domestic arrangements of a home. Domestic science she had to learn a little of as a Very young girl, but she was interested more as a matter of duty than because her personal tastes leant in that direction

The graces and refinements which modern life offers will by no means be neglected by the Princess when she is installed in her own home in Mayfair. She may also be expected to be a good friend to science, in which she has always been interested, and her taste for literature is /well-kn9wn to her personal friends.

Mrs Hugh Ward is particularly well known as a singing teacher, who. gets big results, states the "Sunday Times" of Sydney. As Madame Grace Miller Ward Bhe was wont to lift her fine soprano at many concerts, but of late years she has been seldom heard, as she has been too busy training young Australians. Among Mrs Ward's pupils were Miss Dorothy Brunton, Miss Gladys Moncrieff, Miss Gracie Lavers —who made 'a sensation playing lead when most girls are still thinking of school—and Miss Cecil Bradley. Miss Gladys Cole, who ao far has devoted her talents to the concert platform, was another student who practised her scales under Mrs Ward's supervision. Mis* Bessie Storey is among the latest recruits. >