IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LV, Issue 16429, 24 January 1919, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN.

(gTKCIALLT VfTUTTEH FOR "iHS PEISS.") (Br J. T. SnrcLAi*.) ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Onion.—lt is rot nccessary to cut off onion * tops when transplanting. All that need bo taken off arc any stalks that have become bruised or twisted wlion tho plants ■wore being lifted. , . C.R.B.—The beat time to sow onion seed in autumn is about tho beginning of March. The two principal reasons for onions throwing up seed stalks are a. 6udden check and old seed. In the case of shallots grown from bulbs the latter is not the cause, of course. A check, especially dryness at tho roots some time or other, is usually the causo of the trouble. Onions, and also celery, often go to seed when they have been allowed to get over dry at tho roots, even although only for a short time. Tho plants "bolt" quicker on light than on heavy soil. Convolvulus.—The best way to destroy convolvulus in a garden is to fork out the roots, and keep the hoe moving in tho soil as much as possible, so that no shoot has a chance to make any headway. Poißoning the ground with a weed-killer, or even coarse salt, is another method, but this means that the soil is rendered useless for crops for a season at least. The continual cutting of grass will not destroy convolvulus which gained a hold among the grass. The cutting will weaken it certainly, but nothing l short of destroying the roots will effectively eradicate it. This is a terrible plant to get rid of. We have known the roots to travel 14ft in one season, and this, too, before any shoots showed above ground.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. Sow. —Radish, lettuce, endivo, spinach, and turnips. Plant. —Cabbage, cauliflower, leeks, savoys, kale, colery, and broccoli. VEGETABLES. Endive. —During autumn this is an indispensable salad plant. It should bo grown as. quickly as possible on rich ground, which,is kept fairly moist. The plants must be blanched before they can bo used, otherwise tho flavour is bitter, and tho texture tough. Of course, blanching does not take place until tho plants are fully grown. As tho crop matures during autumn the bod should be in an open situation away from the shade of trees. The first sowing can be made towards the end of the month, and a successional one about tho middle, or towards tho end of next month. The drills can be drawn an inch -deep, and from fifteen to eighteen inches apart. "When the seedlings are large enough to be handled they must be thinned out a foot apart. *The Batavian variety is the best of the broad leaves sorts, and tho Giant Green curlod is the host of the curled type. Scarlet Runner. —When the flowers of these drop it is a sure sign that moisturo is lacking at tho roots. There is no class of plant in the vegetable garden that is more benefited by a good watering than this, and there is none gives better returns for any attention it receives in this respect. FRUIT. *■ Ripening Grapes.—Many of our I readers have a grape vine growing in their small greenhouse, and a word of advice on tho treatment of the berries after tbey have started colouring is needed now. Until they begin to change colour a moist atmosphere can be maintained in tho house, so as to encourage a full growth, and also the berries to swell. So soon, however, as there is tho least tinge of darkening colour in the berries, then a change must be made in tho treatment of the vines. No longer must they bo given a moist, growing atmosphere. So tender are the berries now that moisture tends to set up decay, and, moreover, the vines hare nearly finished their work, are inclined to take a rest, and tho drier atmosphere, and more free ventilation, allows them to do this. Ventilate the house to tho fullest extent on all hot days, and do not close it in the early afternoon. The front ventilators can be closcd at night, and the top air reduced, but at no time should the house bo closed entirely, unless the weather turns wet, cold, or foggy. , And even then a little air should be left on the top, unless wind is driving moisture in. A drier atmosphere and free ventilation is what tho vines now require, and if plants aro growing under them, these must only be watered when absolutely nccessary, and in no case should water be spilt about the floor in doing the work.

FLOWERS. Layering Carnations.—"With many of us, carnations take a first placo in "tho garden, and there arc few, if any, people who are not fond of these supei'b flowers. F.ew j>eople aro satisfied with their present number of plants, therefore it is well to know the best means of increase. This is undoubtedly brought about by means of layers, and on such plants the finest blooms aro borne. Plants should not bo grown for more than two years, unless in the cas© of very large specimen plants, for tho flowers lose in quality each year. With regard to the date for propagating bv layers, there is some diversity of opinion. Some do it in January, and others, again, not until February, This is as good a time as any. The ""grass" is now a fair the flower about over —two important necessities. The necessary things to hav© for layering are a receptacle with suitable wire or other pegs about four inches in length, plenty of good fibrous soil, mixed with leaf-soil and sand, a small handfork, and a sharp knife. First of all prick up tho old soil around the old plant with the fork. ;ls far av.ay from tuf> base as tho longth ot iicm "ill allow, and make the Lurlacv

quite fine. Now spread on a little of the prepared soil, and you -will be ready to treat each stem separately. Start about the sixth or seventh joint from the growing point, and _ remove the foliage from four or five joints down towards tho base of the stem, and this leaves room for making; tho cut in tho stem comfortably. ltemovo also any decaying foliage, and any of the weaker growths which should not be layered. Now proceed to make tho incision in tho stem. Tho best way to do this is to let the knife enter tho stem on tho under side, immediately below a joint (from which the foliage has been bared), passing un the centro of the stem, and through the second joint. Cutting through this second joint makes rooting doubly suro. In this way new roots are formed at these joints, and il' the first fails, through any reason, ihe second is practically certain to be successful. Of course, it is understood that a portion of the stem is not removed entirely, but simply a slit madeup the centre through two joints. Now tcko tho head of the future plant, the layer, and in bending this into an upright position, the cut portion will stand parallel with the same, and should bo thrust straight down into tho soil. Tliero it is kept in position by the wiro peg. which is placed near tho cut portion. and then more of the prepared soil is placed around. A good watering completes the task. Regal Pelargoniums.—Plants that have finished flowering can be cut back to the second or third eye. They can be syringed overhead now and again, but the roots should be kept on the dry side for some time to give the plants a well-earned rest. If more stock is required, make cuttings of some of the best dioots just cut off, and insert them singly in thumb pots filled with a sandy compost. Herbaceous Calceolarias. —As soon as the second leaf of the seedlings makea its appoarance the young plants should bo pricked out into othor pots, leaving a space of two inches from plant to plant. Once thoy fill up the intervening space, tho timo has arrived for placing each singly into a 3j-in'h pot. From that timo onwards they must bo transferred to larger pots as soon as their roots fill tilones they aro growing in. Fiy August next Ihev should be ready for their final shift iu