HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 15, Issue 65, 5 July 1950, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

(By J. S. Yeates, Massey Agricultural College)

The next month or two should be very busy ones for the home

gardener, because autumn planting of annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees will be in season. The gardener who is lagging behind in his work should take stock no ■/ and prepare for the autumn plantings After removing old plants and weeds from the beds, they should if possible be given a good dressing of well-rotted compost or, if you have it, of well-rotted animal manure. If you have neither of Ihese, then a good sprinkling of complete artificial fertiliser may be ;.sed as a substitute. Whatever topdressing is used, the beds should be dug over, incorporating ’ not burying it deep. Iv must be remembered tha; most garden plants root in the top few inches, and that is where they need soil improvement. Plant The Autumn Planting The autumn planted bulbs should have been planted long ago, but it is better late than never. You may still plant most of them > ich as lilies, tulips, hyacinths, narcissi, and a host of others; but their time fe long overdue. Spring flowering plants of various sorts can be set out now, or as soon as your soil is moist enough. The inevitable Iceland poppies are one example; but also wallflowers, stocks, polyanthus, oansies, antirrhinums, violas, Canterbury bells and sweet William. The latter two flower rather late but are best put out now.

Divide Perennials Now Most perennial border plants are best divided in early autumn, because the planted pieces have a good chance to establish well before the weather becomes too cold and wet. Most nurseries do not send them out until late autumn and early spring, but where you have your own plants earlier establishing is to be preferred. Gerberas are one of the exceptions, and do better if not divided up until spring. Perennials which flower late in the autumn, such as the beautiful yellow Helianthus quertifolius should not be divided and- shifted until their flowers are over. If by that time conditions are wet and cold, then leave any division until early spring. Shrubs and trees should be ordered as soon as possible, even though you intend to go to a nursery to select your own plants. Many lines are likely to be sold out early and once your order is accepted, you know where you are. Autumn planting of these is in general to be advised, in order to- assist in good establishing before next summer.

Vegetable Garden & Orchard Green manure crops, such as blue lupins, should be sown in any plots not required until spring. Onion seed may be sown for spring transplanting or for an early crop. The soil should be in good heart for this crop, and should be worked down to a fine state, incorporting complete fertiliser as de-< scribed above, at about one pound to each two square yards. If the seedlings are for transplanting in the spring, sow fairly thick, either broadcast or in drills an inch or two apart. Depth of planting -should be about a quarter inch. Apart from raising spring onions or early crops, I consider sowing the seed in its permanent place in August-September is a far better proposition. Cabbage plants may be set out in situations where the winter is not too severe and where the soil is well drained and in a good state of fertility. Broad beans may be planted. Peas sown in May-June should produce a crop in October if a very sunny, sheltered spot is available. I have found Richard Seddon or William Massey (both early sorts) suitable for such treatment. Strawberry plants should be set out as soon as possible. The white butterfly is still doing damage to cabbages and Brussels sprouts. Spray again with a D.D.T. preparation if damage is being done to your crop. Asparagus tops should be watched, and as soon as they begin to yellow should be cut o-T near ground level, removed and burned.