HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 15, Issue 63, 30 June 1950, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

(By J. S. Yeates, Massey Agricul-

tural College)

PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS In the next two or three months a large number of trees and shrubs will be planted out, some successfully, others doomed to poor growth or failure. Proper planting or poor plantis is one of the important points in deciding success or failure.

We are all too much inclined to judge trees by their tops when we buy them, overlooking the importance of a really large root system if growth is going to be satisfactory A good top does not always indicate good roots. For instance, young trees grown in some very moist, rich soils may have very small root systems, and this shows up when they are planted under less favourable conditions. Trees grown close together in sheltered places also tend to have more top growth and less root than is desirable, as also have trees that have not been properly wrenched each year. Worse still, the grass-grub may have attacked the roots, eating away most of the fine, fibrous ones which are the most important.

Having bought your plants, whether with bare rots in the case 01 deciduous trees and hedge plants, or in balls, or pots, or even in of soil just like annual seedlings, they should be handled carefully until planted. If they are to be planted within a day or two, then they may be left as they come from the nursery, and the wrappings should be soaked if conditions are at all dry.

If they are to be kept for several days, then they should be “heeled in” in a shady, damp place. This is merely a temporary planting to keep the roots from drying out. Balled and potted plants can be set in the ground and earthed up to cover the ball •or pot. Bare rooted trees should be taken out of the bundle and temporarily planted quite close together in a trench. Make sure to get the roots of each plant in contact with the moist soil and firm the ground well when covering the roots.

When these bare-rooted plants are taken out (use a fork) for final planting, it is a good idea to “puddle” their roots, or rip them into liquid manure of creamy consistency. This liquid manure can be made by stirring good, rich soil including well rotted cow yard manure, with water in a bucket. Puddling bare roots of any plants not only gives them a coating of moisture which help-3 them, but also provides manure right where it is needed.

Be very careful if you use any fertiliser when plating trees. The fertiliser should be thoroughly mixed in the soil and should not come in direct contact with the roots.

When planting fruit trees or other deciduous trees with bare roots, first have the ground thoroughly broken down, and dig a hole definitely larger than the roots. Examine the roots, trimming off any broken or ragged ends with a sharp knife so as to leave a clean-cut wound. Set the tree in place and see that the old soil mark on the stem is going to be about level with the soil when the hole is filled in, If you are going to drive any stage in beside the tree, do it before covering the rots, so that you can drive it between the roots. My own belief is that a stake driven in alongside the tree is a poor support. A much stronger support is given by one or two stakes driven in at a slant, so that the trunk of the tree is supported where the two stakes cross one another. If the prevailing wind forces the tree towards these slanting stakes, they give first class support. Make sure to wrap folded sacking around the stem prevent chafing against the stakes, and check that point every few weeks. Disease or stem borers often enter where stems are chafed in this way.

Having finally placed the roots of, let us say, your apple tree in place, shovel in well broken soil and move the whole tree up and down in short jerks, to settle the soil amongst the roots. When most of the soil has been replaced, tramp it very firmly into place, using the heel rather than the fiat of the foot. Finally, put the rest of the soil in place but leave it loose. When plating trees balled in the usual way, dig the hole and have everything ready for replacing the soil. Then cut the twine holding the hessian in pJace, and gently ease it away from the ball of soil. If tender roots are coming through the hessian, take it away cnly from the upper surface of the all; any further movement might break too many roots. The soil can then be placed around the ball, firmed into place and topped off with loose soil.