HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 14, Issue 25, 15 August 1949, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

By the Horticultural Department Massey Agricultural College.

CARE WITH EARLY SOWINGS With the advent of longer days and the weather a little kinder, we can make further preparation fcr the coming season. It is not a good policy to sow, or attempt to sow, a great, amount of seed at the present time, as most root crops are biennials and, if sown too early, tend to go to seed. This is aggravated by variable wea. ther conditions. If the seed has been sown and commences to grow* during a spell of good weather, a cold stretch later on will check growth until the better conditions of late spring, when the seedlings in a second period of strong growth, tend to go to seed.

If the soil can be worked into a good condition seeds may be sown in limited quantities to provide a few early vegetables after the winter break. Carrots, white turnip, peas, broad beans (if not already planted), lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower (preferably in raised beds) may be sown in warm positions. Sowing over deeply is a waste of seed, for preference, sow in rows running north and south, to equalise the sunshine and light available to each row. This is helpful to the plants and makes for steady and even maturing of crops. Small seeds require only shallow sowing, so a drill may be made by pressing along the line a short piece of wood, preferably about one inch wide and flat at the base. The seed may be covered by pulling the back of the rake lightly over the soil. Cold Glasshouses To those home gardeners who have a small glasshouse and wish to grow tomatoes the following points may be of help.

Preparation of the soil should be deep-digging, about 15 inches deep, with the addition of compost or any other material available. Poultry manure, if available, should be applied moderately if in a heavy raw state, but if with shed cleanings, dust and straw mixed in, it may be applied a little heavier. If poultry manure is used, sulphate of potash must be applied in conjunction ;o offset the ammonia released by the poultry manure. About two ounces per square yard is sufficient. Having prepared the soil the next step is thorough irrigation to make sure the lower soil is wet, and this should be done about three weeks before planting. With the soil again in good state and the plants ready to be transplanted, the soil should be “heeled” to consolidate it. This is essential in tomato-growing under glass, as plants put into loose soil make a rapid growth of root, which in turn starts a heavy vegetative top growth not altogether in the direction of fruit. Heeled soil tends to retard this root growth. Tomatoes for glasshouse planting are best grown in pots as the plant thereby escapes the check suffered when taken from a box. If the plants are very tall they will do better if planted lying towards the horizontal. This is done by driving a trowel into the soil on the slant from soil level to a depth of ' about three inches. The plant is then laid over and covered up, with only the top showing. The advantage gained is two-fold as the buried portion of the stem produces roots, which m turn help to give a greater feeding system to the plant. Secondly it keeps nearer the ground the lower truss of tomatoes, enabling, very often, another truss of fruit to be carried at the top.

■ Tomatoes under glass should 4 not be watered immediately after planting.lf grown in pots, these should be plunged into water before planting. Box-grown plants are more difficult to handle unles the plants are well spaced and well watered before transplanting. If the soil is moderately moist, watering should not be required for several weeks.

When tomatoes commence flowering one must be sure that the fruit sets. This can be done by the use of hormones (fulset) or, in very small areas, by flicking the trusses with the fingers. Make sure that the pollen moves freely from the flowers when this is done.