HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 13, Issue 69, 25 March 1949, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

(By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.) “GREEN FINGERS” The majority of trees and shrubs are long-lived, and the pruning practices we have outlined in these columns will serve to keep them vigorous, free-owering and attractive in form. A few, however, may lose vigour in spite of pruning and top-dressings. These are usually naturally short-lived plants, or perhaps they are not quite at home in our soil or climate. The majority are easily raised from cuttings or “slips,” as they are commonly called, and young plants are vigorous and attractive. Such subjects are abutilons, fuchsias, hydrangeas, kaka beak,, polygala, cistus, flowering blooms and many others should be so treated. The first four are very easy to strike, whilst the last three are more difficult. Some which are difficult from cuttings, but come true from seed, may be easily raised by that means. Fremontia, southeriandia (small “duck-plant” wth red owers), oodalyria, kowhias and others come into this category. It is, however, among the peren T nial plants that deterioration is most noticeable. Overcrowded bulbs frequently produce poor flowers and foliage and disease may take its toll.

Whatever the cause, these plants should be repaced at the first signs of deterioration. Those subjects which come reasonably true may be raised from seed, whilst others may be propagated from, cuttings. There may be newer and better strains available, or some plants may not have been satisfactory. The old or unsatisfactory varieties should be discarded and replaced by healthy new stocks from a reliable nursery Others may be grown at home and provide a fascinating study. Raising from seed will' be discussed ift season.

Raising From Cuttings

Raising from cuttings is comparatively simple, except for a minority of difficult subjects. The chief essential is an understanding of plant processes. Water is the main transporting and cooling agent in a grow-, ing plant. It is absorbed by the carrying plant food in solution to all parts of the plant. Considerable pressure is developed and this enables the water to reach the highest'points and also keep the leaves turgid (firm). When this pressure is low the leaves age and become limp. Only a small proportion .of water is used by the plant; the remainder is given off as vapour from special cells situated usually on the underside of the I^af. When we sever a cutting from a plant we deprive it of its roots and supply of moisture. How then are we to conserve the moisture conten until the cutting develops new roots? Many of the hardier plants strike readily from hardwood cuttings taken in late autumn or eaxTy winter and set in a bed outside. These and many more may also be propagated during late summer and early autumn, using firm young tips a few inches long. These are variously termed “greenwood” or “halfripe” cuttings, and frequently, with perennials, as “softwood” or “herbaceous” cuttings.

Some cuttings may be set successfully in a moist, well-shaded corner of the garden, but it is advantage to have a small frame or even a box with a sheet of glass replacing the lid. Cuttings be set in the open ground in a shady part of the garden and cover with a frame or a box. The soil should have sand and leaf-mould added to provide a good rooting medium, and the cuttings should be set to half or twothirds of their length. A little sand at the base is helpful and the soil must be firmed thoroughly against the base of the cutting in particular. The cuttings should be lightly watered in, but care,must be taken not to make the soil too wet when using this method. The glass should be lightly painted white if the frame is exposed to the sun, and the foliage sprayed with a garden syringe on warm days.

Use of Pots

Probably the best method is to have two small frames with glass sashes and one with a scrim covering. The most economical use may be obtained by growing the cuttings in pots or small boxes about four inches deep. Four, five, or six-inch pots may. be, used according to the size or number of the cuttings, and they should always be well soaked and rained before,, using. Dry pots will absorb a surprising amount of moisture from the soil, to the detriment of plants or cuttings. Pots or boxes should have rough drainage material in the bottom and the compost may comprise two parts of loam, one of sieved leaf-mould and one of sand. Sharp sand alone is an "~''°]lent rooting medium, and provides excellent drainage.