HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 13, Issue 22, 19 November 1948, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

(By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.) FOR SUMMER AND AUTUMN The spring bedding display has gradually reached a climax and, as spring gives way to summer, only memories will remain. Planning and planting for the summer and autumn display must be completed before Christmas, and it is wise to reserve the last two weeks for a complete “clean up” before the holidays. Great interest will be taken in this year’s plantings for, besides the increased interest in flowers, there are garden competitions to be judged about February. Above all, we all desire to create our own parti-cularly-colourful display for the Royal visit. Some weeks ago we discussed raising our own bedding plants, and many readers may have their own seedlings ready to plant out as the beds become vacant. Some late plantings may last for several weeks yet. In most cases Sweet William, Centerbury Bells and perhaps Chabaud carnations have only just begun and, in some districts, continue right up till Christmas. There will still be time to plant these beds with quicker-growing plants immediately after the holidays, i.e., French marigolds, viscaria, dimorphotheca and allysum, etc. The main group of long-flowering subjects and most half-hardy subjects must be set out before the holidays. Plants become established before the really dry season arrives, and the work is then well ip hand for a “break” over the holidays. Plan a Colour Scheme It is necessary to plan a wellbalanced colour scheme for beds and for grouping among herbaceous perennials and shrubs. Rotation is equally important in the flower garden as in the vegetable section. Do , not plant the same type in the same place for two years running. Far too often do we have trouble with zinnias and annual asters and sometimes with antirrhinrums and others. " More often than not this is is caused by fungoid or other pests left behind by a crop which may not have been noticeably affected. Zinnias, salpiglossis and - celosia (cockscomb) require shelter from strong winds and a warm position in good soils. Corners should be reserved for them now but they are tender subjects and, except in warm districts, planting should be left until the end of the month.

The main attributes desirable in a plant for bedding purposes are (1) A generous-flowering nature, continuing over a long period. (2) A compact, sturdy habit able to withstand rough winds. (3) It should be suited to the particular position it is intended to occupy, i.e., light soil or sunny position. Many of the best-known plants are perennials which are raised from cuttings or seed and flower in the first season. The antirrhinum belongs to the latter section and seeds are sown in early spring to obtain a long growing period.

As with other popular plants, disease is making an appearance, and it seems as if we must give up any ideas about growing this plant on for a second year. It is mainly from old plants which have been kept through the winter that this disease is spread. Clean the old plants up and burn them in the autumn. Not all antirrhinums flower at the same time from seed and leading seedsmen class them as . early or late, as the case may be. So do not plant a late centre with an early edge. The edging should be planted 12 inches in from the lawn edge, and 12 inches apart. The centres may be spaced 14 to 15 inches each way. Phlox and Asters Phlox drummondii should be spaced 15 inches each way and perhaps a little more towards the centre for 12-inch spacing. Fibrousrooted begonias are invaluable subjects, free-flowering and suited to sunny or partially-shaded positions and to good or light soils. Two subjects which reach their full glory in March are asters and dahlias. The aster is not used to any extent for bedding, as it has a rather short flowering period, but it may be used where it is desired to follow with an early batch of Iceland poppies or anemones. Wiltresistant strains should be purchased from a reliable source and the plants set 15 inches apart each way. There are also early and late-flow-ered varieties, and all prefer a light to medium loam in an open position. Dahlias go to the opposite extreme—they flower freely and continuously until the frost cuts them or, perhaps, too many are allowed to set seed. The dahlia may be used for large beds or borders, and the Caltness Gem or Unwins’ hybrids make excellent bedding subjects. The latter may be raised from seed sown in August for planting now. 1