HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 13, Issue 6, 11 October 1948, Page 7

HOME GARDENS

(By J. W. Gqodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.) White butterfly is now making an appearance. A parasite was introduced a few years ago to combat this pest. It has been quite successful and we may never again see such widespread epidemics of white butterfly. It must be realised, however, that the parasite itself becomes less numerous as the butterfly disappears, though they do attack the chrysalis of some other butterflies. There is also the possibility that by the indiscriminate use of D.D.T; we may destroy some of these parasites, as has been done with the enemy of red spider. Minor epidemics are bound to develop and continue until the parasite re-estab-lishes itself. It is therefore necessary that the gardener, protect his plants when butterflies Sppear. Derris dust is non-poisonous and controls both butterfly caterpillars and cabbage aphis on plants which have commenced to heart up. The best method is to use a small dust-gun which gives a better coverage and is more economical of dust. The best time is when the plants are damp with dew. Younger plants are usually sprayed with atsenate of lead to destroy caterpillars. This is a little cheaper and probably more effective, particularly in wet seasons, but is poisonous to human beings if used on mature crops. Half-hardy crops, including tomatoes, cape gooseberries, cucumbers, marrows and pumpkins belong to warmer climates and, even if protected from frosts, they seldom make very much growth until the hot weather commences. There are some, gardens which have warm, sheltered corners which receive plenty of sun where plants may be planted in October. Others must reserve these warm corners for planting out in November. Young plants from pots are the quickest to. become established, and once past this, stage these plants will do really well, providing that the border has been well supplied with organic manure and deeply cultivated. Glasshouse or Frame The gardener who has a glasshouse or frame may now sow cucumbers, marrows and pumpkins in 3 or 4-inch pots. The soil should comprise two parts of well-rotted loam, one of leaf mould or sifted compost and one of sand. A curved section of a broken pot should be placed over the drainage hole in the pot and with small 'crocks around it. A little rough turf fibre or similar material on top will prevent the com-, post working down and blocking the drainage. Fill 4-inch pots about | full and 3-inch’ pots to within i-inch of the rim,firm lightly, and sow two or three seeds f of an inch deep. Water lightly and cover with glass and/or paper to prevent the surface drying out. Once the seedlings* germinate, all shading should be removed and the plants given plenty of air on warm days. Thin the plants out when the second leaves appear, retaining the best-coloured plants ' in each pot. Grow them on till the soil shows plenty of white roots, when the plant is gently tapped out of the pot. They may then be planted out, watered in. and if the weather is hot. they should be shaded for a couple of days. The long green cucumber is the most suitable variety for outdoor growing. The apple cucumber is quite distinctive in colour, shape and flavour, whilst, it is also the hardiest. Marrows of the long green or long white bush type are the most suitable for the home garden as they require'less space. There are many varieties of pumpkins and squash and a great deal depends on personal choice. I prefer the triamble or the Queensland Blue. The former is a dependable cropper and the latter a good keeper. Tomatoes and cape gooseberries are sown, pricked out into boxes and grown on as discussed under seed sowing a few weeks ago.