HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 12, Issue 91, 6 September 1948, Page 7

HOME GARDENS

(By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.)

THE FLORAL ROTATION The past winter has been mild and, followed by warm weather in August, has resulted in exceptionally early plant-growth. There is no doubt that spring is here in all her glory. We cannot prevent plants from “breaking” early, and consequently we must push ahead with spring work. Complete the planting .of ornamental and fruiting trees and shrubs as soon as they arrive. The shortage of labour' and delays in transit will probably result in plants arriving late from the nurseries. However, plants from this source have been lifted for some weeks now, and the shift will delay leaf-break by about a fortnight, whilst new roots will also be developing. These young roots are very tender, and plants should be handled carefully. Should they have dried o.ut owing to delays in transit, they must be soaked by standing them in a bucket or tub of water. Deciduous plants should then be planted immediately before the sun or wind has a chance to destroy the very young, almost invisible roots,. Spindly or weak growths should be pruned out and, if the top is unusually bulky in proportion to the roots, the plant may be shortened back to a rounded shape. The reason we do this is to reduce the leaf surface which requires moisture and nourishment from the roots. Most varieties of ornamental apples, plums, peaches, apricots, almonds, etc., should be cut hard back as outlined in the first year pruning of fruit trees. With other subjects it is really a matter of judging the indivdual plants. Witch hazels, maples and other subjects which have more fine roots and less leaf may remain unpruned. Care With Evergreens Evergreen plants establish themselves very quickly at this time of the year. Many of them have fine roots growing through the \ scrim covering the “ball.” Normally, this scrim should be removed, but light or partly-rotted scrim, through which roots are growing, may be left intact. I prefer to cut the bulky scrim away from round the neck of the plant, as this may take a long time to decay if left. On no account should scrim or the straw packing be left round the roots of deciduous trees. Work should proceed apace’ with the sowing down of new lawns. The operation is identical with that outlined for sowing down last autumn. There is a possibility, however, that the surface soil may become rather dry and loose. It should be firmed in thoroughly by tramping, raking and retramping until a firm seedbed is established. Besides preventing subsequent sinking of the lawn, this will ensure that sufficient moisture is drawn up through the soil to assist the germination of seed and the establishment of the grass. Spring beds are now well furnished. The earliest of primula malacoides and poppies, etc., are in colour, and the remainder will follow on until November. Now is the time to plan for the summer, colour with annual bedding plants.I have mentioned previously that the flower display; needs to be as carefully planned as are crop rotation and succession in the vegetable garden. Bedding in the small garden should be confined to one or two prominent beds which are planted up in November to give colour during January, February, March, and often right through till the frosts come. These are planted up again in May to give colour in late August, September, October and sometimes into November. It has been found that these two periods are most effective. Spring planting in August would finish in mid-sum-mer, when time is at a premium and plants, if available, need care in establishing. Furthermore, salvia, zinnias and othir half-hardy plants must be planted before Christmas if they are to give a good display before the frosts “cut” them. Success in growing plants depends a great deal on an understanding of plant reactions. Shock from sudden changes and transplanting is an important factor. Watering is important, particularly if the boxes have not been-made up uniformly. £>oft corners usually dry out very rapidly, whilst the remainder of a box will remain moist. Antirrhinums may still be sown, also bedding dahlias, golden feather and lobelia, whilst phlox drummondi and petunias may be sown if they are required before November.