What Next In “New Look” Styles: Lingerie Goes Retrospective In States

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 12, Issue 75, 30 July 1948, Page 3

What Next In “New Look” Styles: Lingerie Goes Retrospective In States

When confronted with an illustration of what the latest New York lingerie collection were featuring, several Wellington retailers and manufacturers of women’s underwear looked startled. They shook their heads when gsked if they too were planning similar styles for New Zealand women. The American “new look” in lingerie included an old-style camisole, and flounced pantaloons, with lace edges fringing the ankles. There was a new trend in lingerie, they said, but it was mainly a swing to the ultimate in femininity of design which women were seeking when buying underwear. The main request from many of her customers, said one lingerie salon manager, was for Empirestyle nightdresses and Mahorate ro-mantic-looking negligees. The nightdresses usually had a throat-hug-ging neckline, full bishop sleeves and voluminous skirt falling from the high Empire waist. Negligees cut on flowing lines and richly lace-bordered were now included in five-piece sets of lingerie that were popular. Handworking was again much sought by customers, she said. Chiffons, pure silks, satin's and georgette and “the masses and masses” of lace are being used today to create ultra-feminine underwear. Trouser legs cut to resemble a full skirt and a three-quarter coat characterised what women* often looked for when buying tailored pyjamas, it. was said. The designer for another firm said one of her latest styles for night-dresses featured only one sleeve. The neckline was continued under one armpit so that,a wearer would have one covered and one i uncovered shoulder, a trend that had found favour with evening gown fashions recently. The suggestion of a frou-frou of ruffled petticoats necesary with some of the fully-cut . new .day frocks was being supplied by one shop in a half-petticoat-cum-skirt garment. It began at the waist like a skirt and carried ruffles of frilling round the hem to give the needed full outline to the skirt it was w worn with. The trend of women’s underwear throughout the years has been in line with that of top clothing worn. There were frilled pantaloons and voluminous petticoats for Victorian crinolines and flimsy three-piece sets for the short frocks of the past 10 years. Materials have changed as much as styles, Nainsook, cambrics, longcloth, and handkerchief linen gave place to silk about the time of the first World War. The modern look began to emerge in 1931 with two-piece sets of brassiere and parities made of ninon and lace.