HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 12, Issue 73, 26 July 1948, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

(By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.) ANTICIPATING SPRING The days are becoming appreciably longer and, although the weather this month is usually broken, we must push ahead with the new season’s programme. Two wet weekends in succession will often upset the home gardener’s plans, so make the best of the first, and every, fine one. We must hurry to complete alterations and plantings discussed during the summer and commenced earlier in the winter. Deciduous trees and shrubs are now as nearly dormant as they become in our climate, but very soon the buds will commence to swell. Plant when the soil is in a free-working state. It is unwise to firm wet soil round the roots, as this will puddle it, excluding air and destroying the friable soil condition so beneficial to plant growth and the development of new roots. - ,

Nurserymen pack deciduous plants with damp hay or other moist material surrounding the roots, and covered with sacking. This packing material must be removed before planting, and the plant “set” before the roots have a chance to dry out. Remember, even if there is no sun, a breeze will dry roots 'very quickly. If the sites or positions for planting have been prepared for some time, the soil will have settled down by now. However, with recentlyprepared or new holes the soil must be firmed in, otherwise excessive moisture will drain into it now, and laier the soil will become too dry. Excavate a hole rather larger and deeper than the spread of the roots, firm the soil in the bottom by tramping lightly, and set the tree in the centre, with roots spread out. Add some good soil and lift the plant to the correct height, that is, the mark showing the height apd soil in the nursery. This will tend to give the extremities of.the roots an outward and downward spread. In some cases there are several tiers of roots above the bottom ones. These may be drawn up and the soil firmed lightly over the lowest tier. More soil should then be added and firmed as the next tier is spread out, always in an outward and downward direction, and never curled up. Depth of Planting

The depth of planting is much more important than is generally realised particularly with trees. They develop the underground portion to resist any action of the soil, and the stem is specially built to be exposed to the elements. The union of the two types of tissue should be at ground level. Too shallow planting may give poor anchorage, and roots on the surface may become troublesome. Too deep planting may result in poor root development and often of decay at the base of the trunk in later years. Should the ground be unfit for planting, the plants should be unpacked and heeled in! There is always the danger of roots drying out if left too long. There are usually drier corners in the garden where a trench may be taken out and the plant set with roots spread ..out and soil firmed in. When shifting later, it is advisable to loosen the soil carefully, as new, but tender, young roots may have developed. Evergreens are heeled in in a siimlar manner but without removing the scrim covering of the ball. They are never dormant, and consequently require more care in handling. Except where the ground is heavy or likely to become very wet, evergreens may be planted now if the soil is right. First make sure that the balls of soil and roots have not dried out. This is usually quite obvious, either by the appearance or weight, of the plants. Dry plants should be soaked for a few minutes in a bucket of water and then allowed to drain thoroughly before planting or heeling in. Another point of interest with evergreens is that they arrange their leaves so that the upper sides of the leaves obtain plenty of sunshine and the lower sides are sheltered. This is a natural protection, especially with large-leaved subjects, against excess loss of moisture from the leaves by transpiration. The side on which the foliage is dense, .previously faced the sun. It is usually quite distinctive, and should again be planted facing the sun. This is particularly important when transplanting difficult evergreens, especially large plants. It may be necessary securely to stake plants with heavy tops, until they become established. Use a tidy stake and sacking, or old rubber tubing, to prevent the twine or stake from chaffing the stem. The surface soil should be forked up lightly when the work is completed.