HOME GARDENS

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 12, Issue 34, 2 April 1948, Page 6

HOME GARDENS

(By J W. Goodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S. Massey Agricultural College.)

ESTABLISHMENT OF LAWNS Wherever British people have settled they have always established lawns. Even where little is done to cultivate a garden, some attempt to establish a lawn is nearly always made. There is nothing more attractive and restful than a well-kept lawn. It sets off the surrounding garden features and colour schemes to full advantage and/or provides a play area within the confines of the home section. Unfortunately, a great deal of labour and expense is wasted through a lack of understanding of the requirements. A grass to withstand continued close cutting must have a fine close “stooling” habit with the foliage closely pressed to the ground. The two grasses which have proved most suitable are Brown Top and Chewing’s Fescue. Both of these are naturally plants of low-fertility areas where a fine close sward has been built up over the years. Ryegrass, on the other hand, is a pasture grass requiring a fairly rich soil. There is little stooling of the plant and the rather upright growth tends to leave the lawn bare and less attractive after mowing.

A lawn may be established on 8 or 9 inches of good soil, but grass roots will grow down one foot or more and it is desirable to have the extra depth if possible. The nature of the lower strata will have a considerable effect on the surface soil both for drainage and for conserving moisture during dry spells. The operation which has the most important effect on subsequent results is that of grading or levelling. High points on a lawn become bare with mowing and, when the ground is hard, water drains off into the hollows without penetrating the crests. The result is a bare, lightly-colour-ed crest and a lush dark-coloured growth in the hollows. The aim is an even-growing lawn of uniform colour and this may be obtained only by levelling the subsoil and retaining a uniform depth of good surface soil. The levels of paths, house foundation and perhaps the street will determine the level or grade of the lawn. It is usual to grade up slightly from paths, and if necessary low walls may be used to break a lawn into two or more levels. Small “pokey” lawns should be avoided, as large sweeps are much more effective. The lawn edge should be three inches above the level of the edge of the path, and with small lawns and average soils this would serve to drain the surface water away via the path. Question of Drainage

With larger flat lawns and heavy wet soils, it would be essential to lay drains. Tile drains are the most suitable and last longer. Other methods are mole draining or open drains filled with stones or clinker, using coarse material at the bottom, followed by finer material and finished off with 8 or 9 inches of good soil to carry the grass. The outfall is most important and must give good clearance, particularly with the last two methods, which silt up if there is the slightest check in the flow. Excavations commence from the outfall, and the main drain should extend from there across the centre of the area. Lateral drains of smaller tiles .or dimensions should be laid out on the herringbone pattern and lead in at an angle of 40 degrees on to the top of the main drain.

The best method in grading is to commence from the level of the path. You will need a straightedge and spirit level. Average loamy soil will settle approximately one-fifth and allowance must be made. Drive pegs to the required height above the path and a little less than the length of the straight-edge apart. More pegs must be set in rows across the area from the first line. If the area is to be level, they may be driven down until the level, when placed on the straight-edge, laid across the pegs, says “level.’ Should the ground have a gradual slope, test one row of pegs with the level showing a drop of, say, one “bead” length per length of straight. Once you find the amount of adjustment, carry on with the other rows. Alternatively, the levels may be found by the use of a “Lumpy-level.” This is quicker and the best method with large areas and steep slopes. You may have a surveyor friend wh.o would help you here.

FOR LAWNS LESS FORLORN Now we have reached a stage where the ground had been thoroughly prepared and a firm and fine seed bed was ready for sowing down a lawn in autumn. Now, in some areas the soil may be still dustdry, and it would be wise to wait for rain before sowing. Where the ground is good and has been cultivated throughout the summer it will be found to be reasonably moist below, and may be sown now. The best method to ensure that seed is sown evenly is to divide the area into strips, from 4 to 6 feet wide, 'with the garden line and to sow each strip with the required amount of seed. There may be even better results if the seed is halved and one lot sown lengthwise and the second crosswise over the area. Brown Top must not be buried deep-

ly, yet Chewing’s needs to be covered. The best method to ensure this is to lightly rake the soil lengthwise along the strips, leaving small drills or rake marks, sow the seed and give one light rake crosswise. Should the ground be very dry it may be rolled lightly. Seed must be fresh to ensure a good germination—buy certified seed from a reliable seedsman. If the soil is dry, birds will dustbath, disturbing the seed bed. Use small mirrors hanging on sticks or other contraptions to scare them. This brings us to the application of fertilisers. These fine grasses are slow to become established and are greatly benefited by an application of fertiliser prior to sowing, and one again after growing commences the following-spring. The best treatment is to use two parts of sulphate of ammonia and one part of superphosphate at the rate of one ounce per square yard of the mixture. About 25 parts of sand may be added to the spring or other subsequent topdressing to assist the amateur to make an even distribution. The resultant lawn will more than compensate for initial expense and much labour will be saved in mowing, watering and weed control. Weed destruction is the first operation, and many people may have already carried this out by using hormone weed-killers during the summer. Filling Bare Patches Once the Weeds have been moved, the lawn becomes bare in patches and these will soon produce more weeds. The next operation is, after mowing the lawn closely, to scarify the surface both of the bare patches and the remainder of the lawn. The best method is to use a sharp rake or close-tyned dragfork which has been sharpened to a keen edge on the front (side facing the handle) and tapering to a sharp point. Only the best steel tools will be suitable; others will not take an

edge. Commence from one end of the lawn and, working backwards, draw the rake towards you, cutting about one-inch deep. Keep the rake lines parellel throughout even if it is necessary to draw the rake forward several times to gain the required depth. The result will be a series of small drills about threequarters of an inch deep. The rough material raked out should be taken off as work proceeds. An application of loz. per square yard of the Sulphate of Ammonia and 2oz. superphosphate (one mix) should be made, broadcasting it evenly over the surface. Where the sward is thin or patchy it would be advisable to make a light sowing of seed. This would vary from |-oz. to foz. of the Brown Top-Chewing’s Fescue mixture according to the degree of bareness. The final operation is topdressing with soil. This -must not be heavy, else the seed and grass will be buried too deeply. Three or four bar-rows-full per 100 square yards would be about the right amounts, according to the degree of, unevenness or bareness. Topdressing soil must be free of weed seed, otherwise weeds may be introduced to the turf. Such soil may be obtained by removing the top three inches off old pasture and taking the soil from below, or from a clean vegetable garden.

If deeper depressions are to be filled these should be attended to before scarifying. There are two methods, the first by filling, the second, where good turf exists, by lifting and building up. In the first method the hollow should be well scarified and filled with soil.