Home Gardens

Bay of Plenty Beacon, Volume 12, Issue 12, 13 January 1948, Page 6

Home Gardens

(By J. W. Goodwin, N.D.H. (N.Z.), F.R.H.S., Massey Agricultural College.) (Continued from previous issue) Shelter and Sunshine No lilium growing under garden conditions will withstand the onslaught of string winds. There must be good shelter, preferably without the root-robbing propensities and overhanging branches of large trees. In towns a boundary fence may serve the purpose and could be covered with some evergreen climbers to hide it during the winter when the.lilies are dormant. Lapageria, berberidopsis, clematis armondii and other choice subjects would appreciate the soil conditions and shelter.

Most liliums, except perhaps- giganteum and its allies, prefer quite a lot of sunshine. Another reason why they should not be too hemmed in or shaded is that botrytis is apt to become epidemic in New Zealand gardens. The spores of this fungus disease attack and spread rapidly when the foliage is tender and the atmospheric humidity is high. With plenty of sunshine and air movement the attacks are minimised, but all liliums should be sprayed with Bordeaux or cuprox from the time the shoots are a few inches high. This disease does not kill, but it greatly reduces leaf activity and checks plant growth, as well as disfiguring the leaves. L. candidum, which carries its leaves through the winter and is very susceptible to botrytis, should always be planted well away from other lilies, as spores may spread from them. The majority of liliums grow in large colonies or among grasses and shrubs where each plant of the association protects or nurses its mates. In cultivation, the liliums prefer to have a ground covering of lower-growing plants which shade the lower stems and keep the soil cool. The height varies with the individual lily or perhaps the district. Azaleas'and other ericaceous shrubs are very useful subjects. They do not grow very tall and are not rootrobbers. If some of these subjects are evergreen they will help to furnish the border in winter time. “Waltz to Places”

Having prepared a general lily border, the enthusiast will then need to plan the positions for various lilies and also any special compost required.

Let us suppose that one end of the border is shaded from the direct rays of the sun. This is the position for giganteum and its allies, which should be planted at the back on account of their, size. Should there be a woodland spot in another part of the garden, this lily tyould be very grateful for a home there. Other lilies requiring some shade from the direct rays of the sun are L. wardii, L. tsingtauense, L. maximowiczii and L. bolanderii. L. Hansonii and L. henryii should be sheltered from the fiercest rays of the sun, as their colours bleach rather badly. On the opposite end of the border, in the most sunny position, we should plant the greatest number of the European lilies, particularly testaccum, which is a hybrid from European parents. In fact, most liliums, except those in the first list, will thrive in full sun if sheltered at the base. The soil composts should be free and gritty. Care must be taken to ensure that no millipides or wire worms are introduced with leaf mould or peat, as these pests may do considerable damage at the base of the bulb. Personally, I believe that special composts or even sand round the bulb may be harmful unless it is distributed well below the bulbs, and also around them. If only a small hole is prepared it may serve as a cup, and the sand or other material may drain moisture to the base of the bulb instead of away from it. A good general planting mix should .be approximately one-third good fibrous loam, one-third leaf mould or peat, onesixth sand and one-sixth of threeeighth inch metal chips. This should be partly mixed with the surrounding soil. The percentage of peat or leaf mould should be increased for the American lilies. Order Bulbs Early

Bulbs should be ordered early, as they are now in fairly short supply. It is also necessai’y to plant as early in the autumn as possible to ensure establishment before winter. Planting depths vary with the type of soil. Generally speaking, they should be two inches deeper in light sandy soils than in average loamy soils. Actually, nature has endowed these bulbs with contractile roots which draw the plants down to the most suitable level in the soil. The size of the bulb will also make a difference, as it is unwise to plant a small bulb more than twice its own depth. Stem-rooting develop additional roots on the stem above the bulb, and consequently three or four inches or more will give them more room to develop. L. giganteum and allies are planted with the tips of the bulb just below ground level. Stepping stones leading in and around the plants are an advantage

in wide borders, and the soil will be kept in better condition if untramped. Great care must be exercised in cultivation, as some lilies, notably L. duchartrei and L. wilnottiae, spread underground before they show through. A mulch of sawdust or rotted organic material is advisable. This will keep the soil cool and conserve moisture. Spray to keep aphis under control, as these pests spread virus and deform young growths, particularly on auraturns and speciosums in the late spring. The lilies are quite hardy plants and may be unexpectedly easy if conditions are to their liking. (Continued in next issue)