Gardeners Meet Demands Of War

Auckland Star, Volume LXXIII, Issue 172, 23 July 1942, Page 3

Gardeners Meet Demands Of War

'J'HERE are still many gardeners to whom the disposal of weeds and rubbish is an embarrassment. During the wet days of DISPOSING winter it is imposOP RUBBISH sible to burn them; at any rate the fire has an unpleasant habit of flaring up after dark, with consequent explanations to the air raid warden. If they are thrown on a small heap at the bottom of the garden it is a matter of only a few days before they are covered with a verdant growth of bigger and better weeds. It is often unwise to throw them over the back fence and inexpedient to put them in the dust tin. The answer is simple—compost. It is not a new suggestion, but as there are many gardeners making their debut this year a general outline of the process may be of interest. Fortunately it is not a difficult operation. The biggest obstacle to most people appears to be to get it started. The first thing to do is to choose a handy spot at the bottom of the garden, preferably in light shade. Then scoop out six inches of the top soil in an area about six feet by four and rig up an arrangement of old iron or boards to hold the material. Then start building, using £very kind of waste that is available. Kitchen refuse, potato peelings, lawn and hedge clippings, weeds, leaves, tops of peas and cabbage leaves, seaweed—any vegetation that has any chance of decomposing can be used. However, care should be taken to pile the material on in layers, between each of which should be a thin layer of soil. In the first place use the material that was dug from the trench; then dig another trench alongside, using the spoil to build up the first heap. Add lime freely from time to time, also add a sprinkling of sulphate of ammonia, blood and bone or fowl manure. Wood ashes are valuable, but should be kept dry before being used. Keep the heap moist, turning the hose on it occasionally. If it gets hot when nearing completion turn it over into the hole alongside. Old sacks should be placed on the top to assist in the fermentation process. After two months the mass should have reached the stage of decomposition when it may be dug into the garden. It produces manure better than most fertilisers and in addition to adding to the health of the plant will improve the texture of the soil to such an extent that in a few years' time, if constantly applied, it will be possible to dig the garden with a fork. There is no point in making the heap too high; far better to start another one. * * * *

TT is not generally recognised that a comparatively small plot will produce by intensive cultivation the needs of a family THE STAPLE throughout the VEGETABLES year. For instance. 300 square yards is sufficient for the average family. Under wartime conditions, however, it is wise to avoid too much experimenting and to concentrate on the crops that practice has proved are successful in your particular locality. If you have proved to your own satisfaction, for instance, that your soil is unsuitable for cauliflowers, or that potatoes merely make a fool of you, there is little point in wasting valuable space on them; better to plant a double ration of peas and carrots, which you know will give you a return. Seeds are not expensive and compost can take the place of fertilisers, while deep digging will produce good vegetables under practically any conditions. So there is little excuse for Aucklanders not being able to keep themselves throughout the summer by their own efforts, and in many cases through the winter as well. There are several staples that practically any garden will produce with the minimum of trouble. Take, for instance, radishes, peas, beans, turnips, silver beet, beetroot, cabbages and marrows. These are practically foolproof. They will grow under almost any conditions and in spite of any treatment they may receive. Concentrate on these first. Naturally the quality of he crop will be improved by proper attention. They must be kept watered, hoed and where necessary staked. Then come carrots, parsnips, cauliflowers, onions, leeks, Brussels sprouts, kales, tomatoes, pumpkins, lettuce and the various herbs. These are not much harder to grow, but are subject to disease or require special conditions. Carrots and parsnips, for instance, are subject to attack by fly pests and have to be sprayed. Cauliflowers are hardy, but must be kept growing without a check, so the soil must be deep and rich. They take up a lot of room and can be jettisoned if time presses. Onions also need rich soil and only the roots must be planted, in a firm bed. Leeks need the same conditions, but should be dropped in a hole about six inches deep and an - inch in diameter. Brussels sprouts require the same conditions as cabbages, but do better in a cold climate. Both pumpkins and lettuces need a rich seed bed—the latter especially. Animal manure is the best fertiliser. | Vegetables that can be sown or planted now are potatoes, peas, leek 1 seedlings, broad beans, beet, carrots, » spinach, white turnip, cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce.