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THE WEEK'S WORK.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Many newly planted trees will need firming after the storm. If there is any cavity round the stem fill with a little dry aofl or sand. A short stake should be put to all freshly planted shrubs or trees that have a single stem and a large head. 1 This is a good time for lifting and dividing Cannes. Plant up single \ crowns, choosing the strong outer ones, i Chrysanthemum stools can be lifted, the suckers pulled off, and planted up. Chrysanthemum cuttings rooted earlier, and which are now growing strongly, can have the tops pinched out. Those in boxes should be potted or planted out once they make a few inches_of growth* Prepare the beds for the Chrysanthemums; good drainage is essential. but as the plant is almost entirely surface rooting, deep cultivation is not so essential. v * Where the plants are to be grown in pots the compost should be prepared at once ready for the potting process, which should be done during the next few weeks. Cuttings of Dahlias will root readily now. If only a few plants of each kind are required the best way is to cut off each cutting with a pijece of tuber attached. Many tender seedlings planted out during the last week or so have *■ suffered from the storm, and replacements will be necessary. Planting out of season is taking odds against the weather, and will always result in disappointment except in very favoured gardens. Spent flowers of Anemones and Ranunculi must be kept closely ' picked off to prevent seed forming. Once seed is formed the blooms soon become very small. Gladioli can* be planted; in fact, these bulbs can. be planted almost any time throughout the year. Planted now they should flower about December. Seeds of Asters, Petunias, Sunflowers, Phlox Drummondii, and any of the hardy and half-hardy annuals, can be sown now. Make a first sowing of Celosia, Salvia, Zinnia, under glass. These need a little care as seedlings; an overdose of water is sufficient to cause them to damp off. - Planting- out ofany of the various leading plants can be done, but the plants should be strong and well hardened off first.- If at all tender a little protection will be necessary for a> few days. The present is a good time for the planting of Lucullia, Poinsettia, Palms, Bamboos, and other more or less tender subjects. Pet*grown plants of Gums, Acacias and other plants can'be also planted now. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. The result of the storm has been the battering about of the tops of the Potatoes and early Peas. Early Potatoes should have the soO drawn up to the tops so as to keep them fairly rigid. shallow, planting and high earthing the tops can be kept from flopping about. Peas should be staked no matter how dwarf; the last storm showed the value of earthing and sticks. Cabbage and Cauliflower plants should have a dose of some, artificial fertiliser. Scatter a little round each plant, and then draw the soil up to the plants. Make further sowings of Peas. Draw a little soil up to the plants as soon as they are a few inches high. Frequent hoeings amongst growing crops is one of the secrets of growing good crops. The Chinese trust a lot to the hoe for successful vegetable cultivation. Further plantings of Onions, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Lettuce, can be made. Sowings of almost any of the vegetables can be made, with the exception of. Pumpkins, Marrows, Melons; these, if sown, must have a little protection. In a warm, dry position, a few French Beans may he tried, but it is too early for general planting. Asparagus can be planted now. .It is always best for the plants to , have started to grow before planting. Rhubarb can be planted, but no time must be lost, as the crowns are \ starting, and failure will result if planting is left much longer. < THE FRUIT GARDEN. Spraying having been finished for the time being, clear away weeds from the trees, and fork the soil round about the trunk. Grafting can be done now. Head back the stock and insert the grafts as soon as possible. The stock should have started growth, but the scions should be as dormant as possible. Look over any of last summer's budded stock. Cut away any ties, - and head back to a little above the bud. Once the bud commences to grow this short stub can be cut off or left to tie the . growing bud to. Manuring of fruit trees can be done now. Where cultivation between the trees is practised, and the crops are manured, little is especially needed by the trees, as they get a Certain amount. Potash, however, is essential to all fruits, and is lacking in many soils. A handful or two to a tree of sulphate of potash will often , make all the difference between a' good and a bad crop. Some of the Peaches and Plums are in full flower, and once the petals begin to fall, apply a spraying of lime sulphur or Bordeaux to prevent brown rot and leaf curl. Now is a good time to. lift and replant citrus fruits. The soil is moist, and has* been warmed somewhat. Protect trees from heavy winds for a few weeks after planting. Give citrous fruits an application of nitrate of soda, using from an ounce or more to each tree, according to sise; about an ounce to each two square yards of ground is about correct. An application of White Island Product No. 1 is also good for fruit trees at this season. It has a certain value against insect and fungi pests, but also releases plant food in the soil.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AS19280922.2.137.31

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 225, 22 September 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

Word count
Tapeke kupu
962

THE WEEK'S WORK. Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 225, 22 September 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

THE WEEK'S WORK. Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 225, 22 September 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

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