A TRIP TO THE SOUTH SEAS.

Auckland Star, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 151, 26 June 1907, Page 6

A TRIP TO THE SOUTH SEAS.

(By the Rev. F. Stubbs.) All Rights Reserved. TONGAN dress. Tongan women generally wear a tunic of figured cotton falling over the vala or kilt, or else a Tahitian. The men wear a vala and shirt or vest. This vala jis what may be called the national dress jof Tonga, and is common to both sexes. It is a broad piece of cloth or cotton fastened round the waist so as to form a kilt falling a little below the knees. It is a most suitable, comfortable, and picturesque garment, with great variety as to colour and material, and I should be sorry for it ever to be discarded in favour of European trousers. For this climate, at all events, it is far more suitable, cooler, cheaper, more easily washed, and adding both height and elegance to tbe figure. The head and feet are uncoveredThere is one other article of dress, too, common to both sexes. No native is fully dressed without an umbrella. It is a sort of badge of retpectability. To see the number of umbrellas carried even in fine weather, one would think that Tonga must have the most uncertain climate in the world. Even Sherlock Holmes himself might have been deceived in this respect. But the fact is, an umbrella here has no necessary connection with rain. The Tongan belle seldom goes out without an umbrella over her head, night or day, wet or fair. Especially is she fond of using it on bright, moonlight nights—indeed, would scarcely care to be seen in the streets without it. One reason for its use at night is that a heavy dew falls, and she wants to protect her elaborately-dressed hair. But the chief reason, I fear, is sheer vanity. Nor, as I have said, is this weakness confined to the female sex. Last week, as a shower began to fall, an old gentleman was observed carefully covering his umbrella with his garment lest it should get wet! It is, of course, very absurd, but let us not laugh to<? loudly. I have seen British children take off their shoes and carry them in wet weather, and even a New Zealand lady has been known to be indignant because a caller sat herself in one of her best chairs! The fact is we are all—natives and Europeans alike—a little bit queer in some things. I sometimes fear I am a trifle that way inclined myself! A MINIATURE KINGDOM. Although the population is only 21,000, Tonga has a King and complete Constitution of its own. The reigning monarch is King George Tubou IL, who was educated in Auckland, and who again visited New Zealand two years ago. Great Britain exercises a protectorate over the islands, but they are ostensibly governed by the King and his advisers. Premier, Minister of Finance, Minister of Education, Minister of Lands, Minister of Police. Postmaster-General are all here, these high offices, with one exception, being filled by natives. There is also a Parliament, which meets once in three years, and which consists of 31 elected representatives, and an equal number of chiefs. The British Government is represented by the Consul, Mr. Hamilton Hunter, C.M.G., who is the virtual ruler of the kingdom. At the present, time there^is: a .gbqt£ 'deal;of-political in the group, which may end"be_o_e Tohg in Tonga ceasing to be a protectorate and becoming a dependency. It appears that three years ago the Government and finances of Tonga had fallen into a highly unsatisfactory condition. The consequence was that the High Commissioner arrived from Fiji; sealed up all Government offices and books for examination; deported the Prime Minister and the Minister of Finance to Fiji; and left the Consul in power, ivith strict injunctions that he should be obeyed. He also, before departure, instituted a new Government, which, under the guidance of the Consul, reorganised the finances, and soon brought things into a more satisfactory condition. That the Administration has very much improved, no one denies. But now that 2i years have passed, and the Consul still rules with a strong hand, complaints are made that he is interfering unduly with the Ad- < ministration, and exceeding his legitimate • powers, acting as though Tonga were a '■ dependency instead of an independent ' kingdom. 'How far these charges are < true, it is not for mc to decide. I simply - outline the position. But that there is ■< considerable unrest amongst- both natives and Europeans is unquestionable. The position is one that requires a good deal of wisdom and tact in the handling, and, as one that has received every courtesy from both King.and Consul, and who sincerely wishes the country well, I trust that before long matters will be arranged to the satisfaction of all Personally, I should like to see Ton=a under the aegis of New Zealand, anil, believe that this would make for both its commercial and political prosperity, and I know that this view is shared by prominent Europeans here. INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. Having an introduction to the King, I called upon his Majesty soon after my arrival. The Palace, with the fine Royal Chapel alongside, is the finest house in Nukualofa, and stands a few hundred yards from the sea. It is a tall wooden structure, painted white, and has a handsome and comfortable appearance. As, is well-known, the King is a man of commanding presence, &\ feet •_ inches in height, well-proportion-ed, and 33 years of ase- He speaks English well, and is exceedingly affable andj good-natured. The Queen Consort, Lavina, died in 1902, leaving one daughter. The King received mc in the throneroom, and both on this and a subsequent occasion, talked quite freely and naturally on topics of the day. He is a regular attendant at the Free Church, and a strict observer of the Sabbath. When in Rotorua, two years ago, he caused considerable astonishment to the Tourist office, by declining to accept the Government's offer to soap the Wairoa Geyser on Sunday.

The revenue of the kingdom is £32,466; the ordinary expenditure about £ 25,000; so that there is a handsome surplus. The King's salary is £2000 per annum, with various allowances. There is a royal guard of 30 scarlet-coated soliders, and also a small body of police, though there is practically no crime.

During one of my interviews with the King, he kindly offered to send mc to see the flying foxes. Consequently next morning there appeared at the hotel door the King's phaeton, with driver, luncheon basket, and mounted attendant, and I was driven to Hihifo, a little town about 12 miles away. Our route lay chiefly over the coral sasds of the sea-shore, and the sea-breeze rendered the drive very enjoyable. Arrived at our destination, I found a large grove of ironwood " trees thickly covered with bate. are a Js_tge 4 Jujsx bj,t t m W e itua.

12 inches long, with, heads like fowt and wings over 2 feet across.- Durin, the day they hang nead-dowiwarS irom the trees, their winge wrapped lit. a mantle about them, but every now and again they rouse themselves -to »£'■ tack a neighbour, or emigrate to sonyj other tree. At sunset they leave the grove and spread themselves over til island, where they do much daauw amongst the fruit. The do, especially to the young coooa-nute; is very great, but the grove is and no one is allowed to destroy them, except the King, and a feu- of thUS apal chief 3, though the natives a red lowed to kill them when found b ft plantations. It is believed by the n» tives, that whenever the bats. W this grove, though it be but temporarily some death or disaster occurs in- ♦£ family ot the chief oi the district •«! Europeans inform mc that this realC appears to be so, however' the dence may be accounted for - - On another occasion I visited the great langis at Mua, the ancient capital of the kingdom. These are the ancient burial places of the great chiefs, and are- situ, ated about 13 miles from NukaW There are several of these langis the largest being about 2000 feet squaw. Each consists of double terrace of lar» coral limestone rocks, some of which are ' as much as 20 feet by 9 feet, enclosing* raised oblong, space where the chiefsjare buried, whilst near by are the roota aM trunks of huge forest trees, which- stw.' gest that formerly these langis were enclosed in a grove. No one knows how qH they are, and how the huge blocks, wert cut from the rock and brought here, and placed in position, is equally a mystery There is a tradition that ttey were brought from another island, but this would inly render the task still more difficult. Neaj Kologa there are other huge stones form, ing an arch 25 feet high, which" probably have the same origin. . > ■' (To be continued)