THE LATEST FASHIONS.

Auckland Star, Volume I, Issue 189, 17 August 1870, Page 2

THE LATEST FASHIONS.

-Arrived at the full height of the season, we cannot but no ice the extremely charming toilettes which are to be found for evening-dress. Ball-dresses are so tastefully trimmed with flowers, that Art seems to be trying its utmost to remind us, even in the ball-room, of the lovely dress Nature herself puts on so gracefully at this time of the year; and, indeed, Fashion does well to set herself to follow, however humbly, ■ the behests of so fair a Jady as Dame Nature. ! Flowers make a very elegant finish to a dress, placed either in bouquets or formed into light wreaths. The train is still worn for full dress, excepting by quite young ladies, and in their case the skirt should just escape the grouud in front, and be slightly tr .ined at the back. Many walking costumes are made of two colours. There is a material, of which the two sides are of different colour, such as blue and drab, b own and violet; but these, perhaps, are not quite in such good taste as when merely of two shades of one colour—dark and pale grey, dark and pale brown. Grey seems to be the favourite colour just now. There

are some slight alterations in the make of the . upper skirts or tunics ; they are mostly cut i round, the front breadths are always on the i bias, and the hack set on in very deep, full plaits. The manner of looping up, which i constitutes the chief variety, produces the > appearance of their being shorter in some i parts than in others. If the tunic is . to be draped behind, but perfectly flat in front, the back breadths must be cut . longer than the front, and gathered or plaited in, either all the length of the front breadth, or the fulness being all drawn together in ■ one place. It is impossible to describe the many ways in which a panieror tunic can be draped ; but one thing is necessary —that it should be done dn the figure, as it is quite impossible to make sure of producing a graceful effect other wise. The length of the tunic depends on the siyle of the under-skirt; it should at its shortest part just meet the trimming of the skirt, so that when longer it falls a little over it. Black grenadine is a charming material for a tunic over a silk dress, and is most suitable for the time of year. The silk is made with a low body and short sleeves. These tunics are trimmed with one or more flounces alternating with biases or pinked ruches matching the dress, or with one or two taffetas flounces also to match the skirt, which is trimmed in the same style. Plain silk dresses are sometimes trimmed with grenadine, the difference of the material making a slight vai'iation in the shade, and alos producing a lighter effect than a quantity of trimming of silk or fringe. It is made in flounces and thick ruches, plaited or gauflvred of the same, or a little deeper shade than the dress-never paler. All transparent materials must be worn over a plain skirt — no pattern on the unper-skirt of anykind ; it must alway be of silk, under barege, grenadine, or indeed any thin material but but muslin, plain or printed. Muslin robes do not ad rdt of an out-door jacket of the same, or of one of black silk. Black lace is most suitable, or else the dress should be worn fluted, hemmed, and edged with narrow lace. The trimmings of the upper part of the skirt should imitate a tight laced jacket or large basques, and upon the body some lace or a round or square fichu renders the dress quite complete for a walking toilette. A ceinture, very bouffante and draped, may take the place of a basque. The summer bonnets are, many of them novel in shape, and most of them charming coiffures. It no doubt needs a skilful hand to arrange the flowers and feathers so lavi-hly used just now, so as not to give a heavy or grotesque appearance to a style of head-dress that should be kept as light and graceful as possible, but our modistes have become such true artistes that we may safely affirm that a bonnet of the present season, from a good miliner's, is both elegant and becoming. Straw and chip are very much used, trimmed with bright coloured ribbon or silk and black lace. The flowers should be put very high at the side, falling away rather towards the back. Pink ribbon, tulle, or gauze is in favour,and should be mixed with white daisies, lilhes of the valley, white lilac, or honeysuckle. Many of the newest hats are being made with rather broad brims, ala bateliere. These are trimmed with simple wreaths of myosotis, duises, convolvulus, or other simple flowers, as they are mostly worn by young ladies. othe7 straw hats have the brim raised at each side, and bound with narrow ribbon, or a plaiting of ribbon. The taimming consists of a bunch of May or field-flowers placed at the side, fastened by a bow of ribbon, with long ends falling over the chignon. The gauze scarf is still very much worn. We conclude our remarks for this mouths with two elegant coiffures —one in China crape, with a plaited crown, the plaiting continued so as to form a short curtain ; a drapery of the same across the front, so as to form a diadem, with a bunch of flowers or curled feather at the side ; scarf of crape, with fringed ends, fastened loosely under the chin. The second of tulle or crape bouillonne, edged wLjdi narrow velvet; full crown of the same, with a plaited curtain, or rather veil, falling over tlio chignon ; this veil must be edged with rich blonde. A band of velvet carried across between the crown and bouillonne, which forms the front, and on the summit of the head a bouquet of flowers, with a spray falling over the chignon. Strings of crape or tulle, edged with blonde, and fastened on the left side by a small flower or velvet bow.