Ladies' Column.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 444, 20 October 1904, Page 2

Ladies' Column.

LATEST LONDON AND PAJRIS FASHIONS. By MISS IDA MELLER [Aix Rights Rhsekykd.] ; WHIQTHI3.R fcho summer proves wot or lino manufacturers must lay in a stock of muslins beforehand and risk fcho ohanoo of a bad season. The floral muslins this year arp particularly pretty, and it is to be hopod that abundant opportunities will bo given of wearing these cool, delicate fabrics. A frock of cornflower-blue muslin, printed all over with flowers of its own colour, is prettily made up with ruffles of lace at the elbows and a lace yoke dotted over with little flower-rosettes of corn-flower-blue chiffon. This is a mode introduced on several effective blouses of silk, crepe de chine and muslin, the chiffon repeating the colour of the dress, while the' lace which forms the background is usually, string-coloured or in the new shade of butter. Flower rosettes on yokes of black Chantilly lace also accompany with a very good grace a blouse of accordion-pleated chiffon. In this instance the rosettes are-emerald-green, and the colour is., taken; up:: at the waist in a swathed belt of taffeta 'silk. Pastilles of coloured velvet, buttons of glace silk, and designs, in ribbon embroiSeries are other fashionable means Of decorating lace 'yokes. It seems nothing must be left au riaturel., The fancy, among the rich, is for profuse decoration. As a matter of fact, the eye grows so accustomed to elaborate, super-impositions, incrustations, embroideries, and so on, that one at last ceases to marvel at the workmanship displayed and to take all the beautiful needlework that one meets, in the salons of Court dressmakers* as' a :i matter of course. Fashions runs to extremes attunes,- and too ;much trimming has an effect the reverse of that to,which it ; airpSj and serves only to 'cut up' the .figure instead of creating a beautiful 1 impression. Simple, long linesV such as'we'get'inthe wellrout tea-gown are of all styles' in dress the most graceful 'and .becoming.* -The, <rulers of fashion are to-be congratulated on the

existing deoree absolute that * evervthmgjw worn during the next few months "soft and supple quality. If we At must be oreaseless and soft enough through a ring; if wo wear satinet rauSfegp possess similar qualities; while, of reigning materials are the voiles, crepes, and mousselines, whose primary characteristic is freedom from anything in the nature of stiffness.

SIMPLE TAILOR-MADE OF CREAM OR CHAMPAGNE CLOTKA general impression exists that a lightcoloured dress is not so durable a commodity as one of darker colour, and in the main the impression is right. At the same time, there are shades of grey, dove, dull saffron, etc., that show dust less easily than black or other dark-coloured materials, and on this principle the dust-coloured dress often proves a very economical investment. The danger in regard to delicate pastel shades lies chiefly in connection with spots from rain and mud mixed. But, if carefully worn, even the putty-coloured and pale champagne-coloured cloth dress may be serviceable as well as beautiful. They would never, of course, be wet weathei dresses, but are great helps to a smart wardrobe, and are among the most fashionable and becoming of colours and materials. The sketch I am showing this week is taken from a tailor-made gown of cream-coloured faced cloth, made with the utmost simplicity, but with striking effect. The skirt

is guiltless of trimming of any description, and is neatly arranged in pleats, stitched down close to the edges as far as the knees. The Eton coat, cut deep in front, is provided with becoming, full and the new boll cuffs. It is quite simple in style, but bears a pretty and rather novel trimming, which consists of bands of cream-coloured glace silk covered with lines of the finest silk braid and strapped across with fine cords and buttons, long pendent tassels of creanvcoloured silk-forming handsome ornaments in front. . In stitchrngthe trim-; ming to the arm-holes the inner «dge only should ba attached, the outer being left free. In this way the outer edge of the glace silk stands slightly away "from the sleeve, and gives a prettier touoh to the bodice than if stitched down flat. The same design looks lovely in champagne-coloured cloth, with deep cream-coloured braid and buttons, and also in oyster-grey cloth with buttons and braid to match. Pale pastel-blue is another colour much run after this reason. Its prettiest accompaniment is a black hat, whether ofsoft, coarse straw, crinoline or chiffon. The same may be said with reference to gowns of cream and champagne tints. Nothing suits them better than a black hat, and it, may be. of the " picture' type or one. of th§ fashionable toques. On the other hand a burnt lace-straw or champagne straw, works a good effect in conjuno- . tion with a black dress.

A NOYEL CAPE. That capes are important features of > summer fashions is an acknowledged fact. The Queen while in Ireland wore, on several occasions, a green cape that was much admired, and high-class tailors .are doing great things with hoth round and pointed capes.' ' It goes without saying that the cape harmonises with the skirt worn* with it. the ■ harmony usually being in the matter of material as well as colour, though not invariably so, for a taffeta cape sometimes accompanies a cloth skirt. The sacque and the Bussian coat have been with us for so many months that the revival of the cape is a pleasant change of fashion. As a rule, the cape is most i becoming when thrown . back and worn in front, but this mode is ,1 not always convenient—on blowy days, for instance," or when the blouse worn beneath

is not quite! up to the. mark/. For this reason a gqpd£dea is conveyed in the cije patched, which is intended to be open and is! conveniently designed fop the purpose. 5PHe* fronts are thrown back, and Ailing ih tJHe- upper part is 1 a small square vest, attachesl to the cape and handsomely embroidered |with braid and and from this vest a flounce . ,of string, coloured'lace that falls to the waist. Thus, the cape, though-worn open, ! Completely conceals.'thes blodse beneath and is quite secure. Thq patlgra sleeves, of course, for cloth or serge o,f any colour; Tjte back fronts cjouldbe faced w Jth contrasting silk or satin, iof with -the cape material, in which case a; small'piping of velvet might be effectively! introduced.. '. ■; '