Ladies' Column.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 440, 22 September 1904, Page 2

Ladies' Column.

LATEST LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS. j ' By MISS IDA MELLErJ [All Rights Reserved.]; ——■*- ALTHOUGH the gathered skirt claims the distinction of being ' tha latest,' the fitted skirt is not by any means a thing of the past, nor is it likely" to be for some time to come, since there arc certain materials, such as serge, for instance, which lend themselves to the influence of gathers. Tho serge skirt looks better pleated than gathered, and the ploats can be oithor kilts or box-pleats, so long as thoy are uoatly pressed and stitched in order to avert any tendency to thiokon ' tho figure. ■ < Many >oi the now fashionable skirts of serge and cloth are arranged at the waist in small tucks, which extend as far as' the hips and are sometimes-graduated in length so that thoy suggest Vandykes. A slim figure can venture on wearing tucks that- arc not stitched down along the outer edges; but a stout figuro requires more careful dressing, and is almost invariably bettor suited with flattened tucks. One of the handsomost solf-trimmings for the bottom of a skirt is the deep godet flounco arranged in small unflattened tucks all tho way round. A cord inserted in the tncks is sometimes an improvement. Failing tho tucks, the flounco may, with good effect, be coverod with stitching skirts very eften grow limp at the horn and lose the pretty fluted offeot that is required,of them. When this is tho case, they should bo refreshed with a stiff interlining and many rows of stitohing, which will encourage a shapeliness to reappear and help the skirt to wear well to the end. We have been so aooustoraed to the fitted akirt that the

sensation experienced by wearing for the , first time the new'jr' housemaid' skirt, is ; strange and.uncomfortable, and brings with . it a sense of dowdiness rather than :smart-- '- ness. One feels the lack of fit, as it were for. the new skirt and the skirt we been wearing are" so strangely at variauee|§sp Women who feel ill at ease in the" newround skirt, merely gathered at the waist and falling to the ground, are counselled Jo adopt what may be termed an intermediate fashion, namely, the skirt gathered closely to a yoke at the waist, and gathered again lower down and once more at the knees, sothat while being full and gathered the skirt does not fall away from the figure, but has a fitted effect. fi B0LEJ?0 COSTUME. Oatmeal cloth, Panama cloth, Biarritz cloth, and hopsack are materials on which thore is a run just now for hardy out-door costumes. Smooth face cloths are things for smarter wear, while tho herring-bone cloths, hopsacks, etc., aro preferable for everyday, rough use. The herring-bone cloths and suitings in particular offer splendid wear, and may bo recommended, in light shados, for children's coats and skirts. A novel costume, of navy blue hopsack, is sketched in tho accompanying illustration. The smart littlo bolero is cut in a new way, with a square piece at the

neck, that is really an extension of the right front, and fastens with a small fancy enamel buttons across to the left, a second row of buttons trimming the square effectively. The bolero falls over a front of hopsaek, and is cut low at the neck, the filling iii being of tucked esprit net or lace. A couple of embroidered stolo ends pass over the shoulders and' are finished with long tassels, and the cuffs to the sleeves are of. embroidery to match, the prevailing colour being pale willow blue. Two narrow straps of hopsaek and a few little cords and buttons trim the bolero on the fronts. The skirt is finished with deep kilts headed by band of hopsaek,. cut out, on the lower edge?? in tabs, which are buttoned to the kilted flounce. The effect of buttoning a tablier to a flounce is encouraged a good deal among high-class tailors ; and concerning flounces, the straight kilted flounce, as sketched, is rather newer than the shaped flounce, A LACE COATv Extensive use is being made : of lace, which. is now put to the service of pretty little saccue coats for occasional wear. A coat of the kind is sketched herewith. The original is of string colourod guipure, trimmed with black velvet at the neck and wrists, and finished with string-coloured fringe., the foundation of the coat being

polonaise silk matching the colour of the lace. For weddings, and summer fetes, a little coat of the kind would be a verypretty' accessory to a toiletto. Morever, the design is so simple that the coat could be made very oasily by the local dressmaker Dr amateur modiste, and would be quito inexpensive, since it is not burdened with irimmings, arid good imitation lace can bo bought quite (cheaply. <•

I THE CHOICE OF DRESSES. ! The business of planning and preparing a jvvardrobe for' the coming season is not, to £onie women, the easy thing it might appear. TMre arc many things to bo considered when' selecting dresses that are to i last for rntoShs and months, and it is not (always.that Inp's own exact,, wishos can bo parried out, j for common-sense may argue In favour of something more serviceable .than one's statistic inclination points to. The main thing Lo be considered in choosing jdressos.is suijtability to purpose. The girl kvho goes out' a good deal to .garden partios and other social fetes must cfressiin accordance with her engagements, and will tone or twd light dresses; to carry hoi* through the fcoason ; whoroas the girl who mixes .very (little in ,tho social world and spends her summer holiday iquietly in tho country, would probably bo better suited with dark, serviceable attire. Light skirts to the business girl are of very little use; but she may lay in a stock of cool, light blouses in suitable fabrics. The weather, of course, governs our need for ajry or substantial materials, but as wc are no prophets and must provide beforehand for' hot, dry, and cool days, tho wisest coutfea for-thoso who are economically disposejbiS; to- supply their summer wardrobes with frocks that on tho whole are fairly, cool, •lutwihVno.t bo spoiled by the effect of a heavy.B^yeK.