Farm and Garden.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 411, 31 March 1904, Page 2

Farm and Garden.

ORIGINAL ARTICLES.

BEMA.BKS ON PBUNING.

JWJKEBHAPS no operation of the orchardist is bo much neglected vSSj and misunderstood as that of , pruning. Sometimes the indiucriminate use of the pruning knife causes I more havoc in an orchard than several seasons of good care can correct. The first thing is to discover what is the need of the trees growing in the orchard : then, when the cause of unfruitf ulness has been found, one must not expect to correct it at once. Only the best care tor years can produce the best results, and the correction of errors must be a slow process. The objects of pruning are four-fold. First, to check the growth of the top of the tree, and also to shape it; second, to prevent the pruning of too many buds and their crowding each other; third, to pre- | vent overbearing of too much poor fruit; and fourth, to induce fruitfulness. These objects may be obtained in varying degrees, as the pruning and subsequent care are of the right sort. The novice often prunes with one thing in view, and without thought of other results that may come from his work, a few principles must be kept in mind: Heavy top pruning produces wood in the body of the tree, and develops lateral buds, as well as stimulating the tree to much more vigorous growth. Boot pruning lessens wood, but often induces temporary fruitfulness. It is not useful unless the tree has too vigorous a growth of top. Too heavy pruning may weaken the tree to the extent that it is not able to bear fruit. Moßt| of the old trees need three things—thinsing of the upper a checking of their growth, and new wcod for the growth of fruit. In addition and subordinate, the trees will need their tops shaped and cut up to allow cultivation. One should look over the trees and note if there is much new wood or not, If there is, the pruning may be vigorous, with care to leave enough of the new wood to form fruit spurs, Esmove all limbs that are mis-shapen, crooked or broken. Take out all that have vertical forks—that is, with one branch directly above the other—for those if left will split with a heavy crop of fruit. Oat out as much from the centre of the tree a? froa the outs da, so as to allow light and sun to enter. Always bear in mind thai it is desirable that the tree sbould have e well Bhaped top, and that cultivation must be done under thee trees. Avoid the common mistake of cutting too many large limbs, thinking that smaller ones will suffice. The opposite to that is the right practice. Cat several small limbs further out rather than remove a large one, except in case there are two large branches close together; a good rule is not to remove a limb larger than one or one and a half-inch in diameter. In cutting off limbs, make the cut as equare as possible, and near the larger limb from which the one to be removed is growing The tools needed will depend upon the size of the tree. Old trees will require a saw to remove some of the limbs, while the usni tree can be kept in shape with a knife and shears. The shears are the moat useful and effective tool in the orchard, since they leave a smooth cut that heals readily. Use the sbears wherever possible. The wounds usually do not need to be dressed. If they are very large a little wax or a good stiff psiat will do. There are soma precautions to be observed in pruning, for the novice is liable to go to excess in some things Two moderate pruni&gs will do more good than a severe one. In some cases one half to two-thirds of the top may be cut out, depending upon the thickness of the top. Finally, one must not expect pruning alone to make the trees bear a good crop fruit: they must have the right cultivation, with plenty of food, to meet all desainds. Ba sure that the trees have plenty of plant food at their roots. If the ground of the orchard is not strong enough to raise a crop of grain it will not produce a crop of apples. If aloßg with the proper pruning the trees have the necessary and proper care the best results may be expected.

TO PBEVENT HOBNS GEOWING ON CATrLE.

A. simple method to prevent the growth of horns on calves, which is practised ia many different places by stock-keepers : The English board of agriculture gives the following directions for the use of caustic potash: Clip the hair from the top of the horn when the calf is from two to five days old. Slightly moisten the end of a stick of caustic potash with water, or moisten the top of the horn bud, and rub the tip of each horn firmly with the potash for about a quarter of a minute, or until a slight impression has been made on the centre of the horn The horna should be treated in this way from two to four times at interval's of five minutes. If during the interval of five minutes, after one or more applications, a little blood appears in the centre of the horn, it will then be only necessary to give another very slight rubbing with the potsth, The following directions should be observed.- The operation is best performed when the calf is under five days old, and should not be attempted after the ninth day. Ctuatic potash in the form of whit a stick may be obtained from many druggists. When the caustic potash is not in use it should be kept in a stoppered glass bottle in a dry place, as it rapidly deteriorates when exposed to the air In operating one man should hold the calf while an assistant uses the caustic potash. In making use of it it is advisable to roil a piece of tinfoil or brown paper around the end of the stick of potash, which is held by the fingers bo as sot to ic jure the hand of the operator, A very necessary caution is not to moisten the stick too much or the caustic may spread to the skin around the horn and destroy the flesh. For the same reason keep the calf from getting wet for some daya after the operation. Also one should be very caretul to rub only on thß centre of the hoin, and not around the side of it; also beware that caustic potash is poisonous, and must therefore be kept in a safe place.