Traveller.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 405, 11 February 1904, Page 7

Traveller.

SPAIN, l&l HAVE seen more (ban (he usual Mn num^er °* vague hints as to the «Sa manj ways in wfcich. Spain can raise further supplies of money i f she so desires. These few remarks have made me wonder how far the true state of Spain is known to the average man who writes so gliblj about her. No one cau deny the richness of very many of the cathedrals, and I have no wish to do so. I can recall very many chapels in some of the oldest cathedrals that would to the depth of a couple of inches fetch their weight in gold in a good market. Not only are the mosaics that cover many 'of the walls of a very high value, but the shrines are loaded with rare ornaments, and in many cases with precious stones of great size and worth. I recall one chapel in the great Cathedral of Sevilla in which a figure of the Virgin is almost lighted by a huge emerald fixed in the roof above the head, and in many eases the garments o? the figures of Virgin or saints have jewels sewn on them Here, then, is vast wealth, but a country must be very far gone indeed before national sent'ment will consent to parting with it. At present all the relics are rigorously guarded, and every saint's chapel in one of the big cathedrals of Spain has heavy doors of open ironwork, of which a verger possesses the key, and when you are admitted to. the sacred precincts you are not supposed to go too near. ■- < The Vebgebs.The vergers and attendants at cathedrals with a history attached to them rely to no small extent for their pay on the offerings of visitors, and in this connection they show an ingenuity that does them some credit. If one man took sou round the entire place you would give him two pesetas—about one shilling and sevenpence—and he would have to consider himself well paid. Wary travellers who can speak the language make a point of doing this; the others get quite another experience. When they enter the cathedral one man offers them his services, and takes them round the outside of the various chapels. In front of a very interesting .one, with, perchance," some fine Murillo on Herrera banging in the dim light, he calls another man, the one who has the key of this chapel, and hands you to his care, waitiag to receive a peseta for services rendered. Number two takes you into the chapel, allowa you to wonder at its many marvels, and then remarks that a chapel on the other side of the nave is far iicher in its example 3 of past masters, in its mosaics and altar decorations. Not knowing how full of guile is the mind of man, you promptly say you would like to. see it, and your guide forthwith takes you across to the gates—and hands you to guide number three, after receiving his peseta. A triend of mine told me that to •do'the great Cathedral of Burgos cost him twelve pesetas, exclusive of what he gave to the blind beggars wio sat in the sun on the steps.

Who will Rut? When Spain was at the zenith of its power the cathedrals became the receptacles of vast wealth, and for the most part that wealth remains to-day. lam inclined to believe that, in spite of the present trouble, it will remain there. As I said before, a long time must elapse before the people would consent to the spoliation of such wonderful collections of art and jewel work to feed the national war funds. Then, again, where are the purchasers comißg from P America is the great purchaser of the bijouterie and vertu of countries that possess a past, and under the present circumstances that avenue for the disposal of valuable goods -is lost. Unless the very rich people .of the world are the purchasers, there is no chance that the value will be given, and if i'orood to sell, the Spanish authorities would hardly counsel a sale in the bad market!) that must rule. Of all the caUnidrivlk! I ever visited, that of Sevilla la riehodt in precious things, but I question whether they are the moat interesting sights of the place. Beneath the cathedral are vaults and dungeons once, if report epeaka truly, in the use of the Inquisition, and now so jealously guarded that only a very few visitors who know about the existence of these places can prevail upon the men on duty to show them any thing of them, Only two of my friends have succeeded in getting a

SW® °, f fehßß * vaulte - »nd they both •Xi wr- £ BKOft S e Kke natives and paid A rosy big fee. * private property is concerned snew Tbriak sate iot many years of the jewellery and valuable ornameats -.of. many a once great Spanish" tftmily. In moat ot the bigl towns the ™»tor, be he English or American, who °sf .'he least connection with anybody ootside the precincts ;of his hotel, is £?V* *eceiv«.a visit from a woman of tbo duenna class before he has been very teLIS Th is v the agent betwatogthe natiVe.. who wishes to sell and visitor who may be tempted to buy. She fulfils an onerous and often toono »""ye poßitio* in the,entourage of evertf big household, and though at tie *TO,of most writers all bnt- her worst BBrv «sf a have been forgotten, it ia fair'and "glttoeaytljali' she is often very much house she serve*. She usually brings a collection of rare jewels, old lace, and.Spanish fans, and. prepares to bargain'. 1 believe, judging from my .own experience, that the prices asked are market value, though, tf course, it may not be easy to resell what is bought. I-heard Very many sad storieß. rrom thosei agents when I was in Spain, and bought several odds and ends of con eidarable value. In one case I was offered a wonderful library suite, including many articles most delicately inlaid, and some splendid bronzes. I went out of my waj to see them, and had some photographs of the best of the bronzsa. The price asked was English money. I believe the collection was worth twice as much, but the figure beat me.