Ways of Living.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 383, 10 September 1903, Page 2

Ways of Living.

BILK SECRETS. SET is just about one thousand years a#o dip since the art of procuring silk from 3Bg the silkworm became a regular institution, and the material in those far-off days was so very expensive that it was sold in the streets of the more civilised countries for its weight in gold. Silk wa3 mado in Prance five hundred years ago, and towards the close of the seventeenth century the industry was firmly established in England, first in Spitalfields, and afterwards in Coventry, Macclesfield, Canterbury, and Norwich. The first-named centre was noted for its hand-loom work, Coventry for figured ribbons, Macclesfield for dress and furniture silks, and Canterbuiy and Norwich for figured silks of every description. The silks woven by hand-looms were in those days of the purest material; but with the advance of science, the spread of technical knowledge,- and the desire of manufacturers to make money expeditiously, to meet the demand of the times there crept into the manufacture, about fifty years ago, the first cunning means fo adding (xfcra weight to the raw material by a chemical process. This adulteration has been increasing year bp year with such great strides as to cause the average woman of intelligence to open her eyes very wide indeed when she is told what some manufacturers are in the habit of doing to increase the bulk of the raw material. Now, in order to render silk capable of bsing dyed, certain processes of scouring" and washing have to be gone through, and these result in a loss of weight of as much aB one-fcurthof the original quantity. That i 8 to say, a skein of silk weighing sixteen ounces is returned to the weaver, after dyeing, with a weight of twelve ounces. Of course Euch a loss as this has to be made up, and chemistry is called in to aid. Rivalry between Bilk manufacturing firms has induced and created some astonishing ideas for matiag up the losses mentioned—chemical dodges which not only increase the weight, but also the substance of the silk yam. For instance it is now quite possible—indeed, it is done every day+-for the dyer to return to the weaver a skein of silk weighing as much as fifty, and even ninety ounceß, but which originally turned the scale at only sixteen ounces. The discovery of the use of salts of tin by French chemists—who are very clever in this direction—has brought thts modern miracle about, and made silks—at any rate the cheaper kinds —what they are tj-day—poor, thin, wretched stuffs There is no silk to equal that of British manufacture when it is made as it should be, and Mr. Purdon Clarke, the silk expert is directing a movement which has for its object the revival of the British industry in order to provide us again with real English brocades and figured silks, the same soit of material which never failed to please and charm the eye of our mothers and grandmothers. Bat the worst of it is we have become so used to the small prices asked for the adulterated article that it is douktful if pure silk is ever put on the market, if we shall be willing to pay what will be but a fair price for it. With our grandmothers a silk dress that would 'stand by itself* was a possession once purchased to be worn for many a long day; but Damo Fashion has changed her decrees since then, and would lift up her hands in horror at the spectacle ; of one of her devotees thus attired.