Sketcher.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 359, 26 March 1903, Page 7

Sketcher.

KEEPING HOUSE' IN PARIS. in France is jMZbI alfco £ etlier different from what JSaSk it is in other places? The greatest economy is practised by the French. Separate houses are almost unknown. Every one dwells in apartments Ihe prices of apartments are regulated by the number of stairs one has to climb ■Elevators arescarcely ever seen. In comparison with other apartments those m France seem bare and comfortless. Barely are any pictures hung on the -walls, and there is an abeence of bric-a-brac and hangings, Of course, that applies to the dwellings of the middleclass, well-to-do po"rk. The rich live sumptuously, amid historic furniture and pictures, in the most elegant apartments. Tho kitchen is usually one of the most attractive places in a French apartment, boing provided with a shining array of copper teakettles, saucepans, etc., all burnished to the greatest degree of cleanliness, Everything is porcelain lined, and even if a tenant remains no more than three months tho kitchen battery must b:> done over afresh—at your expense, of course An ice chest is unknown. The kitchen ie provided with a sort of box, shoved halfway out of a window, and with siats for the sides. No ice is ever used is preserving anything. Honeekeepers would wonder how it was possible to get along without refrigeration. The secret is this: Only sufficient for each meal is provided, Every item is calculated to a nicety. When the provisions for a family arc brought in it seems aa if there is not enough to feed a humming bird. In some mysterious manner there al ways is. Some Fbench Dishes.

In salads the French are famous, using weed a which would be thrown away elsewhere. They always serve a salad with one or two fragrant green herbs, a shred of eschalot or a sprig of young onion. Eggs are another dish which are served in manifold ways, and which are a great resource if an unexpected guest comes in. There are a hundred different ways of cooking them, all dainty and delightful. As for vegetable?, no nation in the world knows how to prepare them as well as the Frenjh. Cheese plays an important rola m the economy of a French kitchen. And such cream 1 It is of the consistency of fresh butter. Alas, however, it ia oit m sour. The French do not object to that. | French cream is difficult to obtain. The Frenoh raroly eat it with berries, nor do they put in coffee ss we do. The butter is invariably good, perhaps because it is not salted and soon turns rancid. It is always brought to table ia tempting little pats, a delusion and a snare on account of their extreme thinness, but pretty to look at and good to the taste. The meats are, as a rule, poor and tasteless. In but a few first-class places can one procure a juicy beef-steak, and the price is much higher than with us. The art of roasting beef or mutton is not known to the French, but in the preparation of chickea they are unsurpassed. Turkey is by no means as cheap and common as with Americans. Goose frequently takes its place, and a young goose well prepared is not a thing to be despised. Chestnuts are about the only stuffing ever used in France. Bread stuffing is unknown. The eysters ara horrible little flat things tasting of copper or something worse, They are never cooked, so ono of the chief delights of the gastronomist is unknown here.

The French epicure is inordinately fond of snails, which are raised in quantttios !o« the table. If osa could divest oneself of the idea, the taste is not half bad The shells are . very large, and they are prepared by sprinkling on the top a little parsley and a mmp of butter. They are set in a hot oven and heated through The meat is black, and the taste is not unlike mushrooms. Clams are never seen, but mussels and periwinkles are favorite dainties.

French coffse is a delusion and a snare. The fault is not, however, in the manner of making, but the quality of the ingredients. It ia largely adulterated with chicory, and the French are so accustomed to tha taste that they prefer it made that way.

One great advantage possessed by the French housekeeper is the power to procure in an emergency almost everything edible. There are places called rotisseurs, or roasting shops, where one may see. the beef and chickens cooking on a spit before an enormous open fire. Here one may purchase these articles and have them sent home warm from the fire. There are other shops where one may buy potatoes already fried, or spinach ccoked ready to serve. Also meat pastries and small and delicate shells filled with minced chicken or veal. Salads are ready for the table and any variety of tartlets, and cakes filled with cream, etc. Pastet, Wine and Fbuit.

In pastry the French are par.excellence the cooks of the world. N> sodden pie crust or half-cooked fruit for them. The crust is flaky and the pies always display the fruit, which eeetns to keep its coloring and to tempt the appstite by its alluring appearance. One may purchase an entire dessert course which seems to be meat, vegetables or fiab. There are delicately browned untrusaed chickens, cute little quail, bunches of asparagus, cauliflower or cabbae-e, fish with the accompanying lemon and sauce—3.ll in reality cakes of the most delicate composition. In ices the French are behind. In the first place ice is in itself expensive. When ice cream is served it is in infinitesimal quantities—not much more than a sampla. It is used in private families only on ceremonious occasions. Soda water is unknown.

It is only in tho matter of wine that a French table ia unstinting, even tho servants stipulating for so much or a corresponding sum of money. The vis ordinaire is, however, very poor in quality and by no means intoxicating—its sole recommendation. However, pood wine, like everything else, can be had by paying for it. Water is never used for drinking purposes, whether from custom or because there is a legend that tho water of Paris is unhealthy. A glass of liquor is almost invariably the finish of a meal, and is generally good. Fruit is dear and not nearly as fine as elsbwbere, nor is it used ia such quantities, Each piece is usually counted before being placed on table, and but one apple apiece is allowed to each person. Watermelons are rarely seen or oaten One may procure strawberries at almost any season of the year, the little wild variety being alnso.-t always in the market. .Cherries are about the cheapest of all fruits, and are very good. There are a number of exotic fruits and vegetables w? ich come from the French colonies in Africa. They are Btrange of taste and difficult to accustom oneself to.