JOTTINGS FROM A TRAVELLER’S JOURNAL.

Ashburton Guardian, Volume V, Issue 1250, 10 May 1884, Page 2

JOTTINGS FROM A TRAVELLER’S JOURNAL.

SPECIALLY WRITTEN FOE “ THE ASHBURTON GUARDIAN.”] CHAPTER XXIX. The Tiber Horatios Coolbs Thb Big Sewer—A Shrink of Chastity— Temple of He ;cules —A Plethora of Churches —An Ancient Game— Janus’s Arch—A Doubtful Relic. The Tiber is not such a stream as posts would style pellucid and pure.. Indeed plain matter-of-fact, prosy travellers like myself might be pardoned for calling it nasty. Those who have been accustomed to the sparkling Dee, or who have gazed with pleasure on the emerald green clear current of the Reuss, are apt to be disappointed when they first see the Tiber: and perhaps feql as Neaman felt when ha contrasted the Jordan with Abana sad Pharpar. In comparison with some of the noble rivers that water the earth the Tiber might certainly be described as a muddy ditch, but its yellow waters be* come transparent to those who with the eyes of the mind recal the chequered and glorious histories connected with it A suspension bridge now connects the traffic with the remains of the Ponte Rotto, anciently called Pons -/Emilios. It was from this bridge that the body of Elagabalus was thrown into the river after having been dragged with every mark of contumely round the circus. Standing on the bridge, the visitor, at low water, may see a little lower down the river frag* meats of masonry, the remains of the piers on which the wooden bridge Subllcias was built by Ancus Marties, about six hundred years before the Christian era. These rema'-s are deeply interesting because connect d wuh the hereism of Horatius Codes who defended the bridge wiih unexampled valour. What schoolboy has not had his imagination fired by Livy’s description of the hero’s conduct: —‘‘ The enemy had entered the City by the Sublician bridge had it not been for one man, Horatios Cedes : no other bulwark had the fortune of R<> >e on that day. This man happened to be sentry on the bridge when he saw the' fort Janiculum taken by surprise and the enemy pouring down from it st full speed, his countryman in disorder and confusion, no longer opposing but breaking into flight. He caught hold of the fugitives oue by one, bese chiog them , most earnestly in the name of the gods and man to assist him. He declared that their flight would avail them nothing if they deserted their post ; if they left the bridge behind them free for the enemy to pass there would soon be more of them in the Palatium and Capitol than in the Janicu* lum ; for that reason he charged them to demolish the bridge by cutting it down, setting fire to it, or any other means ' whatever. He assured them on his own 1 part that he would withstand the shook ’ of the enemy with all the resolution it was possible for one man to exhibit. 1 Haring said this, he advanced te ' the very entrance of the bridge, 1 being easily distinguished from those who shewed their backs in retreat* ' ing from the fight, by facing to the front with his arms prepared to engage the enemy hand to hand. Shams induced two of hii countrymen, Spurius Lartins ' and Titus Harminius, both men of eminent birth, to stand by him. Such daring 1 intrepidity astonished the Etrurians. By I the assistance of his two friends, Hota-

tills for a time stood the first shock of

danger, and the severest brant of the battle. But as they who destroyed the bridge called upon them to retire, he obliged his companions to withdraw on a few planks that were yet remaining. Then darting fierce menacing looks at the leaders of the Etrurians he challenged them to come and fight him one by one, sometimes upbraiding them all as slates of haughty tyrants, who, regardless of their own freedom, came to oppress the liberties of others. They were at first im suspense, and looked at one another to see who would begin the attack. At length their army, stu'Jg with shame, advanced, and setting up a shout thre.v their j iveiins from all sides against the single opponent. After receiving all the darts which were hurled at him on Ins shield, he continued with

undaunted resolution and in the same steady posture to maintain hia ground. They then endeavored by a violent assault to drive him from his post and push him int) the river, when the crash of the fall- ; ing bridge and the shout of joy raised bj the Homans on the completion of their purpose abated their furv, and filled them with sudden dismay. When Codes saw this he said, / O Father Tiberinqs, I beseech thee to receive these arms and this thy soldierinto thy propitious stream.' With these words, armed as he was, he leaped into the river, and through showers of darts that fell around him swam safely across to his friends, fc The slate, to testily his uncommon bravery and patriotism, erected a statue to his honor in the Contitiara, and granted him so much land as he could encircle with a plough in one day. ‘ ’ It was here also that the heroine Clselia swam the river <>n horseback, when escaping from Lars Poteen na; a feat celebrated by Virgil : While Codes kept the bridge, and steamed the flood. The captive maids there tempt the raging tide ’Scaped from their chains, with Cloelia for their guide. The Cloaca Maxima next engaged my attention. This celebrated drain originally constructed by Tarquinius Priscu extende 1 from the Forum to the Tiber. It was designed to drain the wet lands of the Valabrum. Even in its present state it is a stupendous proof of Roman magnificence Many of the works in modern cities for similar purposes, are conterapliblo in comparison. The vast tunnel was large enough to admit loaded waggons ; running streams were turned into it, and Agrippa navigated its whole length in a boat. Adjacent stood the Temple of Pudicitia Patricia. This shrine—erected to the honor of patrician chastity—was once the scene of a great scandal and female squabble that issued in a disruption. One of the members of the high born and exclusive sisterhood, Virginia by name, had the courage to follow the dictates of affection in defiance of the rules of caste. She married a plebeian Consul. For this she was expelled. But she was too high spirited to tamely submit to the unmerited disgrace. She defended her liberty of action ; and to show her independence erected, in another pare of the City, the Temple Pndicitia Plebaia, and organised a sisterhood of plebeian matrons. On one occasion the rival processions of noble and middle class ladies met on their way to their respective ahrines. The narrow street was blocked—neither of the trains would give way. A great scolding match ensued, causing temporary dproaf in the city. • How it ended, or whjoh of the companies proved victorious ! in ' the power of objurgatory speech, I am not able to say, as no record has been kept of the details of the verbal battle. Near by stands the round temple of Hercules. It is comparatively small, only . 156fc in circumference, but very picturesque in appearance and|a favorite study,, of artists. It is supported by 20 symmetrical Corinthian columns, only one of which is imperfect. Originally it must haVe been a beautifulstructure ; the interior of the portico was lined with white marble, some of which remains, and th# pieces are so cleverly joined as to appear like a solid mas*. There are sever*lj churches by the Tiber, bqt 1 had neither time nor inclination to examine them all. OhoroheS| so to apeak, a r e a drug in Rome. St, Anastasia in this quarter of the oity ?

perhaps the largest and mo •- ixopwtant. Below the altar is a statue of the martyr to whose memory the church was built; she is represented Ijing with her head on a faggot. She was a Roman lady who ■offered during the persecutions nodi’r Diocletian. Her husband and members of her family were pagans, and embittered against her because she embraced the prescribed Christian faith. But Chryaogonous, a bold and uncompromising confessor, who was afterwards slain with the sword, had groat influence over Anastasia, and upheld by his exhortations, she resisted both the persuasions of her relatives and the threats of pnblic functionaries, and was faithful unto death. As I passed along 1 noticed a group of idlers amosing themselves with a game called “ motra,” played with the fingers. It may be remembered that the ancients had a game they called “ micare digitis,” and no doubt the modern raorra is similar to it, handed down from a very remote period. Indeed, many of tha practices of the Italians of the present day, especially seme of their.'.religions observances, may be traced to pagan sources. The arch of Janus, as it is now called, though upon doubtful authority, is a singular structure. It has four equal sides, and an arch at each of the four points of the compass; and on each side twelve niches, forty-eight in a!!, evidently intended for statues It stands on the ■pot where, in olden time, two roads intersected the cattle market. Some antiquarians pronounce it to have once formed part of the guildhall of the silversmiths of ancient Rome. In the portico of a neighboring church I was shown the jaw-bone of the fish that ■wallowed Jonah I The custodian seemed surprised at my reluctance to swallow his “ fishy ” bait. (To be continued.)