JOTTINGS FROM TRAVELLERS' JOURNAL.

Ashburton Guardian, Volume IV, Issue 1080, 22 October 1883, Page 2

JOTTINGS FROM TRAVELLERS' JOURNAL.

[SPECIALLY WRITTEN FOR “ THE ASHBCBTON , GUARDIAN.”]

CHAPTER XlX.—(Continued.)

Capua—A Memorable Slaughter—An Historical Rumor The Amphitheatre at Capua Yetere—Arrival at Naples—Seeing Naples and Still Living—Sydney v. Naples—A City of Beggars—Tradesmen and Extortioners —The Museum—The Frescoes

and Paintings—Remarkable Art We soon reached Capua, a town on the banks of the Yolturno. It is not the place associated historically with Hannibal, and the demoralisation of his army. The present city, which is fortified stands on the site of the aocient Casilinum, and is chiefly memorable on account of the assault made upon it in the year 1501; by Cmsar Borgia, when more than five thousand persona were slaughtered. We passed near the spot, connected with another more recent and legitimate struggle, the battle field where Garabaldi fought and defeated Francis 11., in 1860, and soon after pulled up at the pleasant little town of St Maria de Capua Yetere, which does occupy the place of the city, once so celebrated for the luxurious effeminate habits and character of its inhabitants. Here, after the battle of Oanne, Hannibal took up his winter quarters, and doubtless the enjoyments of the place might have had an enervating influence upon his troops But too much reliance must not be placed on the historical rumor, that a few months residence at Capua .so undermined the stamina of the Carthigincians that they were no longer a match for the hardy Roman legions. The sensuous indulgences of the period of idleness must necessarily have weakened the discipline and efficiency of Hannibal’s forces, but there were doubtless other causes that operated in favor of the Romans in recovering their supremacy. The remains of the amphitheatre at Capua Yetere are second only to those of the Coliseum at Rome, as regards size, and in some respects’are in a better state of preservation, particularly the arena and the underground passages to the dens where the wild beasts were kept.

From Capua to OaSserta' the country is like a garden. Immediately opposite the station at Casserta is a royal palace, a large building of rectangular form. It was erected in 1752 to the order of Charles 111, and is a good specimen of Italian architecture. I was told that the chapel and the gardens would well repay a visit, but being anxious to reach Naples I denied myself that pleasure. Wa ran on past Maddaloni, with, its ruined castle and palace once occupied by the Oaraffa family, and Cancillo, crossed the branches of the Regi Lagni, in full view of Vesuvius, and arrived at Naples. There 1 took up my quarters at the Hotel Metropoli. Everyone is tamiliar with the hackneyed exclamation <s See Naples and die." Perhaps the glowing estimate of the beauties of the place, implied in this saying, led me to form exaggerated expectations Or perhaps the weather, which during my stay was unusually inclement, indisposed me for realising the full import of the eiilogium. At all events I was disappointed in”the city itself, and its surroundings did not impress me as being superlatively beautiful. I have seen other parts of the, world that would not suffer by comparison. Sydney harbor for instance, in my opinion, is scarcely less charming than the bay of Naples. If its numerous inlets’and romantic coves were associated with the same interesting historican reminiscences, it would be quite as attractive as the Italian seaport.

Of the City of Naples I shall say but little, as I cannot say much in its favor. I was disgusted with its narrow streets and distracted with the never-ending noise. London is quietude in comparison, and the importunities of the beggars ! It beggars description. They are not satisfied.with urging ordinary pleas for charitable consideration, but if they have any shocking personal deformity or sickening sore, they thrust the horrible peculiarity under your notice in the most unpleasant manner. And as to the shopkeepers, there may be honest tradesmen in the city; no doubt there are if a visitor only knew where to find them. But as a general rule they are extortioners, who cheat you in the most sauve and apparently friendly manner. About one-third of the price they ask for the article you wish to buy is likely to be its true value ; and if offered will be accepted after many preliminary assurances to‘sell at such a sacrifice is impossible. I return to more pleasing topics. The first place I visited was the Museum, next to the British Museum, perhaps the finest in the world. The building in which the vast collection of treasures is contained is not remarkably attractive. It was originally intended for stables, and has a fiuctating history—at one time a university, and during the Revolution turned into a barrack. In 1790 King Ferdinand IV., actuated by the laudable desire of transforming the building into an archilogical museum, commissioned an architect of skill to enlarge it by adding an upper storey and the principal staircase. To the renovated structure were taken all the objects found at Pompeii, Herculaneum, and ancient monuments inherited from the Farnese family. In 1860, Garibaldi, during his dictatorship, proclaimed the museum to be public property, and increased the annual endowment that the excavations at Pompeii might be carried on. Finally Victor Emanuel enriched the collection by many additional treasures. The ground flour is devoted principally to wall paintings. They are extremely interesting and give a lively representation of the manners of the ancient inhabitants of Pompeii and Herculaneum —their gods and heroes, and household occupations. Even the lower classes of the people iu the old world cities had the interior of their houses piotorialy adorned. I cannot pre:end to give'an exhaustive description of all I saw, I can only notice a few of the most prominent frescoes. Telephus fed by the hind. This is a remarkable picture. He is about to suck the teat of the animal, which lifts its leg and turps its head to caress him. Hercules, his father, with his attributes and crowned with ivy, is looking at him wPh an expression half angiy, half amused. A winged woman representing Fame spreads her wings, her head is crowned with olive, She points out Telephus to his father. On a rock sits a majestic woman crowned with fruits, she is the protecting deity of the forsaken boy. Near her is a basket qf fruits apd .pomegranates ; a mercy, fawn is behind her playing on a pan-pipe. Hercules has at his side an eagle and a lion in repose. The figures are wonderfully correct in drawing—even the renowned masters of the middle, ages rarely excel the grace of these ancient produc- i tions. The attitudes are natural, the draperies easy and flowing. When first

discovered at Herculaneum the color* of this picture were vivid and beautifully fresh. Exposure has somewhat diminished the lustre, but they are still very pleasing. Another from Pompeii deserves special mention, Achilles recognised by Ullyssex. This is a very spirited picture. The re* cognition takes place in the palace of Lycomedes among the maids of Chios. Achilles with his right hand is seizing a sword, and with his left a shield, on which is Gheron teaching him to play the lyre. Ulysses, who wears a long beard, stays with his right hand theyouajf’Waa’a arm, while Ajax, on the other aide of Achilles, grasps his arm as if to aaanee him that the trumpets had 'given«4slse alarm. Dardamia is in the back ground, and Lycomedes, her father, regards her sternly. In the distance are two armed warriors. 3n the floor a helmet, a mirror and a vase. This picture was found in the house of Questor at Pompeii. [To be continued.]