JOTTINGS FROM A TRAVELLER’S JOURNAL.

Ashburton Guardian, Volume IV, Issue 822, 19 December 1882, Page 2

JOTTINGS FROM A TRAVELLER’S JOURNAL.

Farewell to Niagara Railway Hawk ers —Toron to —Kingston and the Thousand Isles—a Glimpse of Fairyland —lndian Superstitions— An Occident and What Came of it— Montreal.

On Saturday 12th August I bade farewell to the everlasting Falls. The na ural attractions of the place will doubtless continue to allure travellers to visit the wonderful cascade and its surroundings, but something ought to bo done to protect them from the harpies who prey upon their pockets. Of all the places I have hitherto visited Niagara Falls is prominent for the extortionate demands of the resident chaperons and guides. I wonder the two Governments of America and Canada do not combine and so take the management of the place, as to protect the purses of visitors and enhance their facilities for gratifying curiosity. A short run by rail brought me to a small settlement named after the great Falls. I noticed the absence of the usual hawkers. I presume the run was too short to allow of profitable occupation. On all the American railways where the journey is long the traveller has more to occupy his attention than the features of the country through which he is passing, or the peculiarities of the fellow passengers with whom he is temporarily associated. In Australia and New Zealand the traveller by rail must be content with the book or paper from his valise, or with such conversation and companionship as the occasion furnishes. But not so in America. There is that which may divert or provoke him, may minister to his amusement, or stir his bile, according to his disposition or temper at the time. The bell on the engine, which announces the departure of the train from the “ depot ” Anglice, station has scarcely ceased to sound before a man (generally a closely-cropped and cleanly-shaved speciman of the genus homo] makes his appearance with tempting wares. He generally commences with cigars ; these he presses upon the notice of the passengers with a polits pertinacity. No matter whether they be seated in the smoking carriage or in the Pullman’s, where smoking is restricted to “ the room,” it is evidently the opinion of the hawker that everybody ought to blow a cloud, and hence his assiduous attentions. But perhaps you are proof against his solicitations because you have your own pipe or carry your own Cubas ; and you console yourself with the idea that there will be no occasion for future importunity : and perhaps you stretch out your legs and settle yourself for a quiet, pleasant reverie, or a stealthy nap. But the indefatigible trader has not done with you yet. Having failed to induce you to purchase his tobacco he quietly departs to some mysterious corner where he has his magazine of supplies, with the air of a man who has done his duty. Before you are well settled in bodily position or mental frame, as the case may be, he re-appe.irs with a change of programme. This time he begins with an armfnl of books, and generally deposits one in your lap. Perhaps you say “ I don’t want one ; I never read while travelling.” He will bend upon you a look of incre lulous surprise, or of pity, and re p]y _“Sorry to hear you say that, doctor,” or colonel, according to your costume ; “ moat men of distinction read by rail. Just look over my list ; you will find something to interest you. 1 have all first-class works by well-known authors. Look at this ” —he hands you a profusely illustrate! volume with an extraordinary title— ‘ That’s the Boys’ Book of Fun, and will keep you laughing right away.” If he can but succeed in ge ting you to take the book in your hands and turn over the pages he considers the victory to be won. You can scarcely escape the i urchase. But suppose you are incorruptible, you cannot bo persuaded, the man leaves you with imperturbable good humor, and goes through a similar performance at the next seat. Now you flatter yourself. I am rid of the fellow, and may do my quiet thinking. ” ‘ Rut you are mistaken. In a fe .v moments ha is at your elbow again with a basket of ciramels and candies. Again you shake your head : he retires, but only to re-appear with fig*, in the name of the prophet how are you to resist ‘fresh figs.’ But with accents of disgust and irritation you tell him you dont usually go to bed on figs. He takes you at your word, and before many minutes have elapsed re-plies you with oranges and pears, evidently concluding by the exoression of his face, that he has at last mastered you idiosyncrasy, and captivated your taste. Your rising wrath is superseded by an amusing smso of the ridiculous; and on condition of his shutting up shop and leaving you in peace, you purchase a dime’s worth of fruit. The pleasure v.hich this bit of patronage would otherwise have conferred, is marred by the proviso. The merchant looks distressed as he tolls you that he has many varieties of goods not yet displayed ; but of course, if you insist, he must hold them over till to-morrow. Such are the daily experiences of railway travelling in America. From Niagara I crossed Lake Ontario to Toronto. The appearance of the city, as you approach, is very pleasing. The numerous church spires, and other towering structures of a public character form a conspicuous feature. I am not going to bore yoqr readers with a detailed , description of that city, as they may obtain all this kind of Information from other sources. I will merely say that ' Toronto was founded in 1794 by i

Governor Simdoe, who called the settlement York. But, when it was proclaimed a city it’s name was changed to Toronto, an Indian word and aignfying the place of meeting. One of the moral features of Toronto, however, I must not omit to notice I “•■> , mt Sunday there, and was very much impre sed with the contrast it presented, in respect to observance of the Day of Rest, from Chicago and other American cities. The people of Toronto, are evidently more orderly, and religiously disposed in general, than the Americans, In Chicago, San Francisco, Denver, and other places, desecration of the Sabbath prevails. The streets are as thronged, and the places of amusement as much patronised on Sunday as on any other day of the week. But in Tomato every thing is . comparatively quiet. None of the street cars are running. Some few trains arrive, but none depart on Sunday. The shops are all closed, and the traveller is reminded that he is among a people who have preserved the traditions of their forefathers, and who remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy. I took up my quarters during my brief sojourn in the cicy, at the “ Queen’s Hotel,” and I can recommend this house, to any one who may come after me, as a quiet and comfortable abode. On Monday, 14th August, I ret'mbarked, and continued my journey. As the steamer would be en route all night, I had to engage a state-room, the charge for which was four dollars; rather an expensive night’s lodging I We expected to shoot the rapids in the course of the next day, but an unforaeen disaster prevented us. But I must not anticipate. By day-break on Tuesday morning, we were at Kingston. There the enchanting scenery of the Thousand Islands commences. It is literally a fairy land. The steamer winds in and out amongst islands and islets almost innumerable, of every imaginable shape, size, and appearance. Some of them are’mere points of rock, that might be measured by a yard-stick. Others contain acres of ground, and are covered with trees of varying foliage, presenting a charming appearance. Every now and then the vessel passed an island so close that I could have jumped ashore; and at some places, looking a head, alt further progress seemed to be debarred by the overlapping islands. But as wo rounded a point the channel suddenly appeared, and we glided into what looked like a spacious stretch of lake, bounded by a compact shore. But as we advanced the scene changed, like the turn of a kaleidoscope, and countless little islands took the place of the solid shore. On some of the islands picturesque villas have been erected by wealthy people from Canada and the United States; and every year, I am told, adds to the number of those who come to these modern Hesperides to spend the hot summer months. No wonder that this fairy region provides material for romance and poetry. The Honorable Caleb Lyon’s stanzas on the “Thousand Isles” are probably well known to many of your readers:— Kissed by a thousand red-lipped flowers, Gemmed by a thousand emerald bowers, A thousand birds their praises make By rocky glade and plumey brake; A thousand cedars’ fragrant shade Falls where the Indian’s children played, And fancy’s dream my heart beguiles While singing thee, the Thousand Isles. And the Indians believe that the Manatori (the Great Spirit) has forbidden his children to seek for gold ; and they tell you that a certai-i point where it is said to be found in great quantities has never been visited by a disobedient Indian without his canoe being caught and overwhelmed by a tempest.

As we neared Brookville, where the Thousand Islands may be said to terminate, the steamer gave a sudden heel over as if she had touched bottom. For a few momenta a panic ensued ; many of the fassengera were terribly frightened. But had been too much accustomed to the casualties of shipboard to be thrown off my balance. I ran forward and ascertained that we had broken our shaft and were disabled. Fortunately another boat belonging to the same company was within signaling distance. She came alongside and took us in tow as far as Prescott. There we all left the disab’ed steamer and went on board the one that had been towing us. The change involved considerable discomfort. There were already a large number of passengers on board the “ Magnet,” and the addition of those from the ‘‘ Passport” made quite a crowd. Besides this the unavoidable delay made it too late to shoot the rapids of La Cheyne. Arriving at the settlement from which the rapids are named, we were transferred to a special train and conveyed to Montreal by land. My observations there must be reserved for my next. Viator.