GLEANINGS FROM THE FASHION CENTRES

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIII, 3 August 1929, Page 10

GLEANINGS FROM THE FASHION CENTRES

FASHIONS, FRILLS and FURBELOWS

OLD-FASHIONED PIQUANCIES NEW FABRICS AND. PATTERNS FOOTWEAR. NOTES (By Diunu Dane—For “The Mail”) Old-fashioned modes continue. to make their own quaint appeal, the latest item ill the modish toilette being black lace'gloves! They look delightful with a “picture” evening gown; and equally attractive with;, a frock of black sprigged taffetas, long-sleeved, long-skirted, frilled and flounced. And of course the little bonnet-hat comes, tbo! It is made of tucked taffetas! with the most adorable frill of black laqe—very piquant! Artificial silk moire is a newcomer to the ranks of practical fabrics. It. is rich, supple, smart-—and inexpensive, since it keeps its •‘ripple” intact however! much .it may lie pressed and. cleaned. Some of the designers are using’ it for evening gowns as well as day dresses, and. I commend it to the thrifty woman who wishes to .secure up-to-date clothes without’ too, great, an outlay. Enormous spots, some of them as big as the top of /in' egg-cup, are featured; in the very newest printed silks for

day wear. Foulard, crepe de chine and. satin are chiefly concerned with these out-size decorations, which, look' in* finitely / more attractive than they sound. I liked'a black and beige. spotted foulard frock, with tie-cuffs'of; plain beige and a kerchief of the same bound with black. The latter ‘ was draped round the shoulders with the cdhtre point down the. front of tfie di es? and the two ends tie 4 loosely at the back —like a baby’s’bib! 1 ’ White satin is in excellent taste for evening wear. Mixed with gold, in the form of a twisted! gold girdle at the. waist, gold and a gold, bag, ! it looks regal! I saw such a model made with quite a high neckline and long close-fitting sleeved, the glint; of gold and the sparkle of /fV diamohd. necklace providing the' 1 sole relief.'’to the soft white background. Georgette—especially, in the : modish midnight-blue shadc^-is' excellent for restaurant and theatre Igowhs.. Alccomy panied by a coat cn suite, a' dress p’f this , type is fit to grace - ' ahy/ snttrt table or. ' b,ox. ■ They: even''darce ' in ethereal - coats .iri Paris!!- '. ' .- •>

The newest >. bridal- gowni.dispense? with the separata train. The - skirt is made with a series of : full'godets' at tlie back, tvhich widen gradually below the hips and spread out to form a long “peacock” train. With a dress like this, a Short veil is in better taste than a long one. Plaid designs are very much in the picture, crepe de chine, taffetas, and light woollen fabrics alike favouring the Scottish patterns and colourings. The floral posy haß moved upwards from the hip of an evening dress to the shoulder. Sometimes it falls in a trailing spray over the back to the waist; sometimes a line of beautifully made flowers forms a single shoulder strap on a dainty dahee dress. > Deep sailor collars lend interest to simple dark-coloured day frocks. The collars arc in the gayest of gay striped sflks, are cut in orthodox sailor pattern, and are finished with sailor ties Blipped loosely beneath them and knotted in front.

“Skin tones” prevail in the silk stocking realm, but this dot*? not mean that all these bits of, silken chiffon loveliness are in the ordinary flesh tint. They shade from palest beige to ruddy brown,' and arc to' be selected, according to your colouring: blonde, medium, red-head, or brunette. “Shell” is a delicate flesh tint, for fair folk; “blonde lido” meets (lie requirements of the bionde with a godly skin; “suntan” is for the woman witli a rich, sunkissed complexion, while “French beige,” “Mayfair tan” and “brunette lido” are other good sunburn colours. In the evening, dark gowns are accompanied by matching shoes; light ones ate better suited by mastic or silver footwear. Every smart woman who favours the white satin ensemble chooses also white satin shoes with gold, silver, or jewelled heels. The “vagabond” hat is hack! It was expected, of course, whon the cloche suddenly took wider and more supple lines. Very piquant is the modern vagabond, in braided effects, iiv squashy straw, or in super-soft felt!

MASCOTS FOR THE WINDOWS A PRETTY NEW FASHION; The gay Chinese mandarin or Russian peasant mascot doll, which dangles impertinently against the back window of nearly every car to-dav, lias just foiipd a new home. It hangs l>e- ’ tween, the. curtains in the dining-room or drawing-room window! A peasant’person dressed in barbaric reds and-blues, for instance, dangles between', curtains ?of honey-coloured linen, striped with black and scarlet. The Japanese.' damsel looks out demurely. from hangings of dull silk crepe, patterned! with almond blossom and wee flying birds. Agaiii, blue and white checked durtains are parted to reveal Miss Hook’ of Holland, with rosy cheeks, long fair' woollen plaits over lier blue-clad shoulders;, a? striped full skirt, and long ‘white' legs' ending in ridiculous miniature wooden sabots. Another window.’ idea—bright ‘ jars of vivid, flowers, painted on wood and cut into silhouette, are arranged along the. middle bar, of the centre window. Rqcl and yellow, purple and- blufr the blossoms shine in-the Sun,, "greying” ; perkily r outof. their cheery crJinson jars, and .making the whole place.'look delightfully decorative,■ ) • Somewhat similar in conception is the casement which boasts a lbiv of 'quaint* spiked cactus plants in (tiny, pots along the upper, .bar.. There 'is ■every variety of cactus, from tall ones like minute palm .trees, to squat ones like-'little porcupines; .some are flat and spiny; others angular and ridged, ’ahdi one or two have queer vivid, red. NO more £ost. buttons : ' ? IEC YOU FOLLOW .THESE ■ - • . SUGGESTIONS ‘ •

1 When sewing buttons ’on garments, see; that the knot is placed qn the right 6ide of the material, directly under the button. The thread' will be far less likely : to break or become loosened, and thfe. button: -will not easily pull off. ’■i Linen' buttons on underwear will remain in position almost twice gs long if. they are steeped in cold water and dried before being, sewn on. By first shrinking the linen in this way, you make : the button more elastic, so that it “gives” round the outer, edge; without straining the centre. * ; buttons on coats,- gloves, shoes and all wearing,appar.el subject to the atmosphere,•; se.w. thein, <>vith pr ,cotton; previously waxcd : or oiled. JiiSt . draw the strands : herween *the thumb .and’fingfer lightly:moistened, iii fitaidifne. qil, or along a'piece of bees-, wax, pr'even A tallow, candle. This will keejrthb thread thoroughly. Sva.tefproof, inefease its strength, and prevent •button'’’ eyelets from chafing through :the strands; When sewing buttons on children’s •wear;and men’s overalls, use gaVdeners’ raffia tape in preference to; thread or cotton.. Twopenhyworth .Of the tape will last' for years, eacli; piece being split lengthwise . into six or nine? straiuls,'according! to the! fhickness .reGive .eacli'raffia/strand a few rubs witli a pieeeof. beeswax, and sew on - the buttons in theihsual• way... • | THE RUMANIAN WOMAN _ A PICTURE ( : (By Roma Lobel) The first impression you'receive on meeting a typical Rumania woman is one of’ intense vividness. In stature she is somewhat small! blit her figure is usually ..Inroad .and ample. She is dark•skinned and, dlark-haired, and her face •also tends towards . broadness and plumpness, with, full lips which move, i freely ; and-,, incidentally,,. .wry;: very; frequently,! It is, hbwever, in her eyes that most of in. spite of, the fact that they* afe" small!; But? they;, are of such fiepth an<L blackness, so sparkling and. so expressive!When sne;-; speaks, a world of intensity gleams-.- -through -them and is accentuated by? the strong; teeth flashing; whitb through the open / 'i ■ ■ f \

lips. Her voice increases ■ the effect. It rings out brightly and clearly, rising and falling with the emotions expressed, while words tumble easily and fast. As is to be-expected, the Rumanian woman loves dash and brightness in her dress which, taken on the whole is inclined to tie rather cheap. But, cheap or “good.” she carries it with the air of a queen and the attraction of a siren. For she is chic .and full'of charm, and she uses her feminine powers to their full extent. In her character, apart from being intense and emotional she is strong and ’ determined, and displays a great deal of self-possession. Her intelligence is very, marked indeed, though in culture siie is still behind the western woman. • . In spite of all her vehement characteristics, there is in her a decided, strain of indolence! The Rumanian 'woman does not care overmuch for work, nor does she care to hurry. It is in these •directions that her indolence is chiefly displayed. • Such is the picture of a typical’Rumanian woman belonging to the middle .or-upper classes. . The peasant woman leads a far Harder, life, and so quickly loses her looks and becomes coarsened. In intelligence too, she. is very ’ much below her more, fortunate countrywoman. But the warm nature abounds equally in both. POTATO SCONES FOR BREAKFAST The following .is a good recipe for a really wholesome substitute for bread or toast' in the' breakfast menu. • Sieve a quarter of a pound of Hour ..with a tcaspoonfjil. each of. salt and ■hakingfpowder. Rub iu two ounces of lard, and add’half a. pound, of cold cooked mashed potatoes, with one and. a-half ounces of crushed wheat. Mix well, with one beaten egg. The mixture ishould not be too soft;’ if not firm enough, sift in a little more flour. Roll .out on a floured board, cut into scone shapes of suitable size, place on a greased baking sheet, and bake iff a moderate oven until brown. Split, spread with butter, and serve liot: